|New Look 6103. Fabric: stretch cotton sateen|
And this is what my version looks like:
My design decisions for this skirt were based not only on the fact that I had a small amount of material to make it from, but also because a waistband suits me more than a facing or slightly dropped waist. Because I am rectangular/slightly inverted in shape My biggest visual body part is my Tummy and not my Bottom, Hip and Thigh area - on bad tummy days there is not much difference in measurement between my high hip and tummy area and my hip measurement. Rectangles don't have much difference in measurement between bust and hips, but inverted triangles can have a waist indentation, which I try and use. Because I am too slim at the moment, a waistband helps to hold the skirt up, and being a little loose can accommodate a little more middle, or can have a winter t-shirt tucked in (underneath a jumper). If I make a low waist skirt, there is a risk that it might sit around the visually largest part of my body - my tummy - and accentuate that, without showing off my slim hips. A waistband also allows me to ease a little extra into the front of the garment. The kick pleat of course was because I only had enough fabric width to make this instead of a conventional pleat.
The fabric was chosen because it is shades of grey, black and white - all colours in my current wardrobe, so the skirt will go with at least two, if not three or more garments I already own. The colours also work for winter 2013 (which we Australians aren't yet enjoying) but has plenty of black and white in it, which is on trend for Spring 2013 (we Australians are lucky because we can start planning out Spring Summer 2013 and wear it before you do. Conversely winter - in mid winter I will be able to start working on trends from Autumn/Winter 2013/2014). It's also a mid weight cotton sateen so I can wear it on cooler summer days and in winter over tights.
To adapt the skirt I lay a traced sloper of my shape over the New Look pattern by matching grainlines. I raised the waist and redrew it according to my sloper so that the shape fits a waistband, and not a facing. I added extra width for the kick pleat. I tend to add plenty and then cut back when the garment is being made - that way I see what looks best.
I also tested my interfacing and decided on what thread to use - I settled on grey for overlocking and a dark charcoal for the seams. Black was too heavy looking. I also decided on a grey zip, because grey thread on a black zip would annoy me greatly.
|Overlocked edge - grey chosen|
I tested a various pieces of interfacing. On woven fabric skirts I usually use vilene ( a non-woven interfacing unless it is a really good skirt, in which case I use McCalls sheerweft. Sheerweft is a woven interfacing has some give in it and is suitable for knits. I used it because this is a stretch fabric and if I get bigger the stretch might be handy. If I wanted a non-give waist band I would use a non-woven interfacing. But woe betide if you try and stretch vilene - it pulls off and you will get bubbles and ripples.
|Lapped insertion of zipper|
|Inside view of zipper|
|Kick pleat -edges finished|
|Kick pleat being turned|
|(Cont'd part two of this blog)|