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Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Blouse too tight - a quick fix solution.


 It's that time of the afternoon here in OZ - the time that I enjoy sitting down with a nice cup of tea and writing my blog and visiting yours.

As its close to Easter, I may even indulge:



 Today I want to thank everyone who has commented that they enjoy my blog - thank you so much  :)

I also want to show you how to save a blouse that might be a bit too tight over that trouble area, the tummy - the bit that goes in and out, changes at whim and never quite seems to do what we want it to do.  Or perhaps you are in the early stages of pregnancy and just want a little more room.

Sometimes the garment we have made is tight - we didn't fit it well enough, or perhaps fitted it too well - and we don't always remember to cut extra on the side seam, 'cos its never going to happen, is it?

Or, perhaps you have expanded out of a previously loved shirt.

Here is my solution - a godet - I love them because they can be so useful.

So, here goes:

Open up your shirt seam to above the area of tightness (perhaps to just above it).

Open up blouse seam where it is tight.
Prepare a godet piece - I have one I frequently use at the back of a skirt.  I am going to use that, but fold out some of the fullness, which is too much for the effect I want.

My useful godet insert.
Godets are often cut on the bias, as my pattern piece indicates.  That gives them a nice drape, but I have frequently used them on the straight grain if I don't have enough material for a bias piece.  The hang is different - the straight grain gives a more pleat like effect (and also doesn't drop over time).

I don't want such a full godet in the blouse, so I have folded it in half.  I am going to use a straight grain as I don't have many scraps for this demonstration.  The length is about right.

Godet folded in half - fabric also cut.

The smaller godet.
Now I have cut my godet pieces (you will need two, one for each side seam of your tight blouse) it is time to insert them.

I am assuming the blouse has already been overlocked, so the first thing I do is overlock the godet pieces.

Overlocked godet.

Then insert them:

Inserted godet from the inside.


Press seams, I also anchor the top of the godet with a little bar tack, or some hand stitches so it doesn't flop everywhere:

Bar tacks to top of godet at left and right, just below the pins.
 Turn over, and there you have it, a godet insert:

Godet insert right side.

 Hem the blouse and godet in the normal way - of course, if it is already hemmed, just hem the godet - you may have to get inventive about how in that situation.  And don't forget the godet is slightly flared, so all the hem rules for slightly curved hems apply.

The finished godet.
I have pinned my blouse insert onto a white t-shirt on my dummy to show you what it would look like.  Tight tummy problem solved.

I have done this demonstration in two colours so that you can see the insert.  If the insert was white like the blouse, it would blend in well.

Contrast colour godets can also have their decorative uses.  You may like the effect, and perhaps add some top stitching elsewhere in the garment to co-ordinate with the godet.

Godets are also useful in jackets - they can make a small bottom look curvy. Or, if your jacket is too tight over a larger bottom - a godet could work.

Sarah Liz :)






6 comments:

  1. Ahh. That's a great Easter treatment to get over the chocolate feasting. Thanks. I think I'll use a godet or a pleat for my rear.

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    1. Thank you - but bear in mind the limitations of even the best godet before too much choccy.

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  2. At the moment I am knitting a fortie's waist-nipper cardigan - and I have been concerned that the cast on edge may be a little snug on the hips, and have been pondering the issues of godets in the side seam if necessary. I thought it may look too try-hard, but obviously there are others among us who resort to such connivances. Thanks for this timely article!

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    Replies
    1. Sometimes its a matter of saving a situation, I should imagine a knitted godet is quite pliable, but I am not a seasoned knitter.

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  3. Thanks for this! I first sewed a godet in 1969 when I made a pair of bell bottoms out of ordinary flare pants. :-)

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  4. Thank you Mary - and yes, that godet in straight trousers to make flares was really popular - in the really bright prints of the time :)

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