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Sunday, March 17, 2013

Pants crotch experiment - and the winning muslin is...

For people who sew, fitting trousers seems to create quite a few frustrations.  My experiences have been no exception to this.

For those of you new to this blog, I have recently been trialing two different shapes of pants - the shape difference being around the torso, bottom, hips and that difficult place to fit, crotch. One is a Butterick pattern and the other is a sloper drafted for my measurements that I have been working on for a while.

I have made up two muslins and these are the results:

(and I apologise for the colour quality of these photos - I live in an old character house with nooks, crannies, and leadlight, so the lighting and background is not suitable for photos - that's why I use white screens in my photos).

Trousers style 1, Front

 Trousers style 1, front view - not a good look - look at all the wrinkles, including through the upper leg, which  looks quite baggy.  The waist also sits below my waist line - and while that suits a lot of people, it does not work for me - as you can see, a lower rise just emphasizes my tummy and visually widens me. The trousers also look very baggy and shapeless and far too large for me through the hips and thighs).

(I don't have lots of varicose veins (I am very lucky)  although the photo suggest so - so much for colour touching - but it's great for the whole "this does not work" image!)

 

Trousers style 1, Back

 Trousers style 1, back view - not a good look over the bottom, and the legs have quite interesting vertical wrinkles. Also, the hips and thighs  are quite wide - the muslin is quite stiff, giving me a pear shape, but at the same time, the fabric over the posterior looks strained).


Trousers style 1, side view - enhances my little pot belly beautifully! Rides up more at the back, and down at the front.  Can also see those wonderful front wrinkles radiating from crotch area.


Trousers style 2, Front
Trousers style 2 fit much better, with a sit at much more my natural waistline.  I actually have a fairly long rise because I am short waisted.  Visually, this is my narrowest part, and with slim hips I need to have a higher rise in order to give any impression of a curve.  The pants do not seem quite as voluminous over the hip, although the legs are still quite large (but then, as you can see, my legs are really the problem here - they are very slim).

Trousers style 2, Back
This looks much more like my neat bottom and hip area. If fully made up, the back leg may wrinkle, but I am only solving the torso/crotch problems at the moment.



Trousers style 2 - still shows my little pot belly  but with a waistband on and tummy area eased in, it won't be so noticeable.  And -  I won't have to stick it out so much to hold up the pants!  That's why I like higher waistbands .

(Yes, I know some of you are saying "what tummy"?  Allow me to have one - I don't have much of a bust, hip, bottom or lovely curvy thighs, so I am making to most of at least having a little tummy :) ).

So, which muslin worked best for me?  The Butterick pattern or the sloper I have been working on.

Laura  (from returntosewing.wordpress.com  - please do go and say hi to Laura)  thinks that  it will be my sloper.

And guess what? Laura is right.  Trousers style 2, the trousers that fit me the best, is the sloper that I have been working on for some time.  Trouser style 1, the poorer fit around the crotch, with lots of lovely front wrinkles, is the Butterick pattern. 

I think I better stick with the Sarah Liz Sloper!  It does need tweaking, but not today!

In tomorrow's post I will show you the differences on the pattern pieces. 

Until then,

Sarah Liz :)


4 comments:

  1. Your sloper definitely looks better than the Butterick. I do like the higher waistline as well because it makes your legs longer too. You're getting closer and closer to the perfect fitted trousers!

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    1. Hi Elise, yes I think it looks better too, so thank you for your vote of confidence! Higher waistlines do lengthen legs, always a good thing if you are not tall.

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  2. by the time you're done you'll have a jurnal on how to make pants lol! you're making great progress! you've definately got me thinking about making pants!
    Helen

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    1. Hi Helen, you are right, I will have quite a journal! Brave you if you want to make pants - I think the sewing challenge will be good for things like that.

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