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Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Pants! Crotch experiment part 2.

Today I continued with attempting to find the right shape crotch for my trousers.  Of course, this also means getting a torso that is right too, something I have been working on, as some of you know, for a little while now!

So, for those of you that have not seen my earlier post - I am attempting to get a crotch curve shape that suits me.  I decided to use a flexible ruler to assess my shape.  I wondered if a sort of sculptural approach to solving the crotch shape problem would work. Not the technique you read about in books. Only one way to find out....

Drawing the crotch curve on paper

 The next step (after marking front, back, and centre of crotch curve) is to cut out the curve to form a template:
Crotch curve template
I had also attempted to drape my shape, but that got mighty tricky and pin pricky.  But I did establish a crotch curve.  And it is a similar shape to my paper template:

Fabric curve, template curve.


 I have already cut out two shapes of pattern.  One is a Butterick pattern, and the other is one I have been quietly working on for some time.  They are both basic shapes, darted, front zip, straight leg, straight waistband, and no design or style lines to interfere with assessing shape and fit.

Butterick pattern crotch curve

As you can see, this is a fairly flat curve at the rear - in fact it starts to straighten towards the crotch.

The next pattern shape is slightly different:

Sarah pattern - crotch curve.

As you can see, this crotch curve is much more rounded - more of a horseshoe shape that apparently works for flatter bottoms (I'm British born, and we have bottoms! )

I next compared the Butterick shape to  my template shape:

Butterick/Template crotch comparison

With the template both inside and outside you can see that the Butterick crotch curve is much flatter and also steeper in the front - the front curve has well and truly disappeared! (Back is to the right in the photo).


 This is what the other pants shape looks like compared with the template:

Sarah pattern/template comparison

The back is to the left in this photo.  Although there is a slight difference, overall the curve is a more similar shape to my template - and this is also the case with the front.  I realise that I have put the second template in the seam allowances - but the front is sitting snugly on the seam allowances.  If I did that with the template in the Butterick one, it would have obscured the curve shapes. 

I now have to go and sew up the two shapes.  When I have done this, I will be comparing them, taking photographs, and showing you what happens!  Whatever the outcome!

I think I will be posting these on Thursday - I need to visit the dentist tomorrow, and won't have time to do the sewing and photography beforehand.    As soon as I am able to, I will put up part 3 of the Pants Crotch experiment!

Goodbye for now

Sarah Liz :)

P.S.

You may notice I draw and cut a curve on my zip extension.  I am sure most of you know this already - overlocking the shape that pattern companies use is not really workable - overlockers are designed for sewing curves and not precision angles.  So I factor this in and draw a shape that my overlocker won't object to:

Zip extension with added curve shape .
Sarah Liz.

6 comments:

  1. I am enjoying your experiment and look forward to seeing the results.

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    1. Thank you Linda - I hope to have the results in a few days. I have committments to attend to over the next couple of days, and will be fitting the sewing in around them. Posting as soon as I can!

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  2. Hi Sarah Liz! Saw that you are a new follower on my page (welcome!!) And here i am jumping over to yours! How exciting to readalong your pants.experiment. I have yet to tackle pants myself, and pretty sure your thoughts on your process will give me some ideas when i venture on one down the line :)

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    1. Thank you Far, and welcome to my page as well. Pants are easy to make, but hard to fit. Stay reading along because I will be also taking about other resources to help with pants fitting at the end of the experiment.

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