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Thursday, March 14, 2013

Pants Crotch experiment - two muslins to compare

I am attempting to discover what crotch shape in a pants pattern best suits my crotch fitting requirements.

To this end, I have made a template and assessed what sort of curve I might need.  I have already checked pattern fitting books, and as I have a flat bottom it is likely I need a more rounded, horseshoe shaped crotch shape.

I also have a bit of a tum that needs accommodating.

I have made up two muslins - one from a Butterick pattern, and the other a sloper I have been working on for some months.  Both are plain trousers with darts front and back.

(Excuse the poor light in the following photo's - its late at night and I'm relying on the flash).

Butterick pattern pants front.

The size I used was size 8 as I have small hips and thighs.  I did need to add 1 inch at the side seams (all around, so that is 1/4 inch each seam) (just over 2cms, 0.5cm  each side) at the waist area.

I can see just be looking at the shape of the pants that these are not for me.  They are for a figure with a defined waist, hips and curvier thighs.  You can see the depth of the back by looking at the crotch area and the amount of fullness at the rear leg (see inner leg seam).

Butterick pants, back crotch area.
 As you can see, quite a lot of fabric in this part of the garment for bottom and thighs.  Maybe this is why people with flat bottoms get a lot of underbottom sag and wrinkle under the bottom area.

Sarah Liz sloper, pants  front.
This is my little pattern - I've put a towel in the tummy area to show that the front of these pants is larger than the back of the pants.  You will find that patterns work on the assumption that whatever your circumference, half is at the front, and half at the back. This is not so in real life for all people. - I have a smaller back to front, for instance.  So I often have to add extra in the front, and take out at the back.


Looking at the crotch/inner leg seam area, you can see that there is a lot less fabric in the back of these pants.

You can also see that the whole shape of this pant is a lot straighter than the Butterick pattern - much more like my shape.
Sarah Liz sloper, pants rear.
This is the back of my sloper - and it looks very like my small posterior.


I then looked at the crotch shape from the side of the garment - please remember that these are calico muslins I am playing with, and they have not been ironed, trimmed or anything else - and also it is late here so getting rather tired!)
Butterick crotch shape, back of pants.

Sarah Liz sloper crotch shape, back of pants.
There is quite a difference. The Butterick crotch is deeper and has more of an angle that the Sarah Liz crotch, which is smaller and more rounded.

Well, I wonder which pant is going to look best on me - the Butterick pant or the Sarah Liz sloper pant?

I'm off to quickly find out now, and then its time for bed.  I'll post the pictures on Saturday or Sunday, as I have limited sewing time tomorrow - its accounts day at the office.

Wherever you are, goodnight and God Bless.

Sarah Liz :)


6 comments:

  1. this has been a fun adventure with you lol! I'll probably be featured on a lot of Vita's stich slapped fridays once I get started lol!
    Helen

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    1. Hi Nanna - good, I'm glad you enjoyed it! Soon I'll be putting the results up. I'll probably be joining you on stitch splapped quite often, lol's.

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  2. Good luck! i haven't attempted pants yet, but i think my first try will be by tracing the crotch curve and shape of a pair of pants that already fit pretty well and then tweaking from there i think. or i need to get one of those flexible rulers like you used!

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  3. Hi, pants are easy to make, but hard to fit. Yes, do check a pair that fit well - I can't even get RTW's that fit me well so I just have to start from scratch. I think you are on the right track with checking out the fit with RTW. Flexible rulers are good for drawing and measuring all sorts of curves - easier than french curves.

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  4. Love seeing your progress with this - learning a lot too, thank you! BTW, I'm voting its your sloper that works best...

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  5. Hi Laura - I'll be showing you soon. Glad you are learning a lot - I'll always share mistakes as well, because they are just learning experiences in disguise!

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