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Thursday, March 7, 2013

Trouser Trial

At the moment I am working on a pre-test muslin for the Fitted Blouse Contest on PR.  I've already done the first muslin and this morning took it apart and traced the alterations on my pattern pieces.  I then decided that I wanted to pre-test the alterations as well, to make sure that all will work.  I will be posting a blog on the weekend that will detail all  of this.

I also decided that as I was having a morning of muslins, to go back to the trouser problems.  For those of you new to the blog, I have decided that this year is the year I am going to work on this problem and sort it out once and for all.

So, I decided that the first thing was to find a basic block with no details so I could just get a basic shape that will fit me.   I'm fairly straight up and down, 34 inch hips (87 Cm's), and today, in the morning before any bloating, a very trim 26 inch waist (66 cm).  It's usually 26 and a half inches but can go up to 27 and a half inches, on some days (same weight).  I'm sure I'm not the only one who has a rather elastic tummy area!  So I've often done a size "13" waist and size 10 hips.  However, Nancy Zieman in her book Pattern Fitting with confidence says that you should use hip size (which I thought I was) and then go down a couple of sizes. So she suggests that a 34 inch hip should use a size 6 pattern.  This is because the legs are otherwise so baggy (don't we all know that) and the crotch does not fit.

Well, I have not got a pattern that small, so decided to settle on 8.  Nancy Zieman gives lots of complicated instructions about how to get a perfect fit with all sorts of measurements, but I found that I just wasn't quite getting what she was saying.  So, I decided to cut out a muslin and have a look for myself where the issues might be. I have used two different patterns.

I'll be trialing trousers during the fitted blouse project - and updating progress as it happens.  I work tomorrow, but the day after will allow me time to really nut all this out.  Along with the blouse.

Pattern 1, Front.

For those of you that are highly observant, you will notice that I also curve the zip extension into the crotch. This makes it far easier to overlock.

Pattern 2, Front,

As you can see, these pattern shapes are quite different.  It will be interesting to see which is the best fit on me.  Incidentally, I looked at a crotch shape on a pair of RTW trousers and it was more like that in Pattern 2.

Pattern 1, Back.


Pattern 2, Back
Again, quite different shapes between the two.  Pattern 2 has one dart, and Pattern 1 two darts, but even if these are taken into consideration, the crotch shape on Pattern 2 is a lot different from that of Pattern 1.  Again, comparing the back crotch of a pair of RTW trousers showed that Pattern 2 had a crotch shape that was more similar.

Well, I've got to go to work next, then the ironing to do after, then dinner.  You know how it is - but the difference today was I decided to sew first and other responsibilities later.  Usually it's the other way around, and you know what happens then, don't you?  Yes, too tired to sew.   I decided it was better to be tired doing the ironing, which is dead boring and doesn't need much alertness - ditto dinner, dishes and so on.

Sarah Liz :)

8 comments:

  1. These are going to be a great pair of pants.

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  2. You've made a good start already.

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    Replies
    1. Hi Maria, yes, this is going to the year of working out what works for pants.

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  3. You're really well prepared to get those pants fit!

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    1. Hi Elise, thank you - it may take a few attempts, most people have trouble getting pants to fit well.

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  4. Impressive! Looking forward to seeing your progress. Also love how you reprioritized sewing - so true! Going to have to try that!

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    1. Hi Laura, I think it is going to take a good 12 months of trial and error to get a pair of trousers that works well, but that's okay. Yes, I'm going to try change old habits! Won't be easy.

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