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Saturday, May 4, 2013

The Work Trousers/Pants...


Last year my husband's two staff resigned (after 15 and 18 years respectively) at about the same time, leaving him in a bit of a spot, so silly me offered to help (so I finished my exams and the next day was working full time as a medical receptionist - not my cup of tea.  Five weeks of that, then a new lady was found, back to study to complete my Graduate Diploma in Psychology.  Some semester break! 

This required trousers that were presentable.  So started my journey with McCallsM5239:

McCalls M5239
This is a Palmer Pletsch pattern, so comes with basic fitting instructions including flat bottom and different crotch depths.  I made a size 8 legs, and 12 tummy area, as I am a rectangular/inverted triangle figure and quite angular.

The pattern does not tell you how to adjust for a saggy area under the seat, so at that point in time I didn't alter it, as I did not have time and was not sure how to address this problem.

As this fabric is a fairly soft polyester viscose gabardine, they sort of hang without too much saggy area, but you can see the bagginess to some degree - look at the left leg.  Unfortunately black does not photograph well, but on the plus side, it also doesn't show too many faults while being worn either!  The main problem with these trousers is that there is just too much fabric in the leg area - four inches either side (on the double) so they tend to look baggy around my thighs.  This may not be obvious in the photo but in real life it is :-)

Front View
Gosh, I am looking serious in these photos.  Must be thinking work and trying to look the part I think :-)

Back View
Side View

Now, these trousers probably look a little dated, and I would agree, but for the environment they were made for, quite appropriate.  My husband is a very conservative consultant Physician (internal medicine) so these sorts of pants work quite well. 

The other reason I am showing you this conservative cut on me is because some of the modern lower waisted shapes don't really look that good on me:
What's happened to my waist?


Seriously uncomfortable and not a good look.

 So, my McCalls M5239, even if old fashioned, is a better look than this sort of cut.

However, I want to improve the fit on the legs and also remove the bagginess under the seat.  So, back to

 First I laid out my Sarah Liz sloper onto the McCalls pattern (pre-traced).I took out some of the width on the hip/leg area and adjusted to add extra at the waist.  I left the extra at the centre back of the trousers - it can always come out later.

Back

Front
 Then cut out a new muslin -
With the  slightly slimmer legs/hips:
Front

Back

Side
I have not turned up a hem on these trousers - when I know what heel I will wear, I will decide on the length.

I am also not worried about the sway back/flat back fitting problem at this stage - that can come out later.  And the waistline at the front can be altered later.  What I am trying to do is make sure the crotch is okay and the legs are a little less large in the thigh area.

What I did find was that the waist was a little angular and pulling - so I am going to redo this area again and straighten the hips a little more into the slim legs.





 Well, I have some work to do now, getting these trousers sorted out, so I might say goodnight to you all now and wish you a lovely day/evening wherever you are, and enjoy the rest of your weekend.


Sarah Liz :-)




19 comments:

  1. It's a bit difficult to see the fit in black, but you can already see the silhouette is getting better and it fits nicer at your hips! Keep up the good work Sarah Liz :)

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  2. A determined spirit can conquer anything!!

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    1. Hello Rhonda, I think you are right - I remind myself everyday...

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  4. You should know, that since we are both on this pants fitting journey, I am reading your pants posts with much intensity. I'm working with a pattern that is even older than yours - which I have been concerned about. I am beginning to see that the age of the pattern is not important at all. Later we will be able to transfer the knowledge that we acquire from making up these older patterns to ANY new pattern. That would be a great thing for both of us pants wearers in the future. However, do you think that also means that we will need to make muslins for all the new patterns too??? What do you think?

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    1. Hi Faye, I'm reading yours as well. I agree, I don't think the age matters - in fact I have chosen this pattern because it has certain important lines to work from - the hipline and waistline. I think we will be able to transfer our knowledge, but yes, I think muslins are also in our future, Faye :-)

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  5. Wow Sarah, thanks so much for this post. I have that pattern and needed to determine whether to cut a muslin for it as well. I've run into the same problem (too much fullness in the leg) with a Vogue pattern (Claire Schaeffer). I'll be looking in on you and Faye as you both offer up insights on pant details. Have fun....

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    1. Hi Vita, it seems a common problem with trousers, that the legs are too baggy. And you can't just take in and take in on the legs because everything starts distorting. Will let you all know my findings in due course.

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  6. You are doing a great job.. The pants are fitting so much better.. It won't be long, until you have them perfected..
    How nice of you to take your break, and help hubby out..
    [What we wouldn't do for those sweet fellows, ha. Are you out of school now?]

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    1. Hi Judy, yes, I just hope our husbands appreciate our efforts! Seriously, mine does, always says he is lucky. Will go back to school next year. Thank you for you support about my pants fitting endeavours :-)

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  7. I'm sure all the work you are putting into getting the perfect fit will pay off with a fantastic pair of trousers :)
    To photograph black well, stand in full-on sunlight at either early morning or late evening to get the direct sun with no shadows. Good luck!

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    1. Hi Carolyn - One day the good results will come. My sewing is good, so I want to master fitting myself now. Thanks for the "how to" on photography.

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  8. Nice pants. I don't like the low waist on me either.

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    1. Thanks BeaJay, yes, the low waist is not for every body, if you'll pardon the pun.

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  9. Sarah, you are putting in the work so I'm sure your new pants will be a great fit.

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    1. Hi Dorothy, thank you, I must just persevere.

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  10. I'm really impressed with your dedication to the fit! I have never sewn pants before so am interested to hear how go with them.

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    1. Hi, yes, everyone finds making pants a challenge at first, or so it seems.

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