Pages

Friday, June 14, 2013

Troubles with Fitting Trousers - Beginner's Guide.


After you  have learnt to make trousers, you will then find they are quite simple to construct :).  The hard part comes in adjusting the fit to suit your shape around the waist, tummy, hip, bottom, thigh and crotch area.  There are so many variations in the female form that it is not surprising that a pattern is just the starting point for trousers, and will probably not fit you well at all.

I do advise that when you have mastered the making trousers that you do some reading about how to fit trousers.  I have found two books invaluable here - there are many on the market, but I tend to just refer to books when I have a problem (after I have worked out I do) and I look for the simplest way to solve it in the future.

 I use "The Perfect Fit, The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns" by Creative Publishing International - it has lots of photos throughout, which I like, because it is easy to see the problem that you have in real life and compare that to photographs in the book.  I'm also quite fond of Sandra Betzina's handy little book called "Fast Fit".  Again, it quickly and succinctly outlines problems and then provides a variety of solutions.

The Perfect Fit, The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns.
 When making trousers, one problem area is the crotch and rise.  This book shows how to alter crotch length and depth for a variety of body shapes:

Check Crotch and Full Abdomen alteration

Full Bottom and Flat Bottom Alterations
 Sandra Betzina's book Fast Fit is a funny, easy to read book with lots of fitting solutions.  She uses delightful sketches throughout and the solutions are easy to implement.

Fast Fit

Fitting solutions for full hips

Large Waist alteration

This is me - Flat Seat alteration
So, for anyone struggling with trousers, arm yourself with some information.  Gradually play with the solutions when you make your next muslin- eventually you will see improvements.

Sarah Liz :)

4 comments:

  1. Good post! Thanks for sharing these 2 books.
    Eventlually yes :-) next muslin will be perfect! However - you have to arm yourself with a lot of patience :-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Lots of patience and lots of determination :)

      Delete
  2. I just made my first pair of pants/trousers, Loes Hinse Cruise Pant. I was expecting all kinds of fitting issues, I must have had the sewing gods smiling on me as they fit pretty good right out of the package! Lucky me.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I'm pleased everything went well for you - always a good way to begin :)

    ReplyDelete