Pages

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Trouser's - The Key to My Fitting Problem.

I am trialing a few pant/trouser patterns - muslins or cheap fabric trial runs only.  I know many patterns don't work on my slim legs - I get all sorts of interesting wrinkles under my bottom and down my legs.

Warning - this post contains lots of views of my not very pre-possessing rear end :)

This was my first muslin of a very plain pair of semi fitted tapered trousers, from Vogue pattern 8865:

Vogue 8865

THE MUSLIN:



Due to all the wrinkling I tend to have under my bottom, I assumed, from all the books I have read, that I have a flat bottom and need to do the appropriate alterations.  As I have a round tummy as well, and the two problems often go together, I diligently altered for a flat/dropped bottom.  I tend to obsess over muslins, so I decided not to retrial, but to go straight to making the garment.

Big mistake. They look worse than the muslin...


BIG MISTAKE:


Something is seriously wrong around the tail/crotch area, and the wrinkling has worsened.  I am not worried about the ankles,  the hem would fix that area, along with appropriate shoes (along with actually straightening them! - this was a working photo and not really meant for blogging )- I'm looking at my bottom.  Not a good look.

I had a think about this overnight.  What could the problem be?  I have a small rear, I thought - well, it doesn't spread sideways at least.

The light bulb went on in my head.  I have done sculpture in the past, and decided that the way to tackle this was to see and feel the problem.  The pants felt tight in the seat.  I had plenty of room at the sides - so the pants are not too tight - on the contrary.

Do I in fact have a curvier tail than I thought?  Or is it a problem of crotch size?

Both, as it turned out.  I choose my hip size, which I take to be 8 - I am just a tad over the 8.  I often am not sure what to do about the crotch, because I gradually go up to 12 at the waist.  So I sort of do 8-10 crotch, not being sure where my changes occur.

But, looking at the pattern pieces, size 6 gives me more room in the tail - I used this size and then added another few mm's (1/4 inch).  I also rasied the CB in case I needed that - I checked my waist position and it is slightly higher in the back than the front.

This was the result:

TWEAKED CROTCH:


Looking much better but still room for improvement.  Then I added a bit more and dropped the crotch slightly moving into the inner leg area.  I wasn't planning on posting the photo, so was about the put the screen away - this was really my working photo. 


 LOOKING GOOD:


So I need a size 6 and then further tweaked crotch - I'll tell you about the crotch shape I use in a different blog.

I have never been so self obsessed with my rear end in all my life - I am not sure that I have enjoyed it very much :).  But maybe, just maybe, the results of my determined and analytical mind are starting to bear fruit.

Time will tell...

Sarah Liz :)

16 comments:

  1. That is looking so good already! In fact it looks pretty good. Don't worry about how your back looks, when the fit is good it looks prettier than you ever thought it could be :) Will you compare this one with the ones you previously made, like with the flexible measurement tape?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Elise - yes, I will, and I am using some of the same ideas in retweaking the crotch:)

      Delete
  2. Now Im.totally Getting The Need For Multiple MuslinS To Get The Right fit For Pants. YoUr Pics Really Help.Illustrate YouR Explanation :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Far - yes I do recommend you do a muslin, then make them in a cheap fabric with not high expectations - that way, you won't get upset if things aren't as good as you would like, but you will learn :)Then you can make a nicer pair :) :)

      Delete
  3. Oh, it's looking a lot better, well done!! I'm STILL working on my trousers (it was a Fearless February project, lol). And, i discovered that I had put the waistband on upside down! So, will fix that and re-assess. Like you say here, I also find it so difficult sometimes to find out what is wrong and therefore how to fix it. Do I have a swayback? Do I have a flat backside? Shortwaisted? Etc. ETc.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi, yes, it is really difficult to work these things out - I'm gradually getting a feel for it by the process of doing it.

      Was this your first pair of trousers - when I was new to making trousers (or anything else for that matter) I was always putting things in the wrong way around or upside down. It seems to be a step on the road to learning :)

      Delete
    2. Well, it was not only my first pair of trousers, it was to be the first thing I'd ever sewn!! Big mistake, as it has back welt pockets, front pockets, a zip fly, so I had to put them on hold until I had more experience. Definitely NOT recommended for beginners. And, it is a Burda pattern with a difficulty level of 4.

      Delete
  4. WOW!! You're almost there, yippee! Just a bit more to come out of the lower crotch curve and you're there ... taking photos is the way to go obviously, I need to find a blank white wall and give it a go myself. (Somehow I don't think going down a size will be one of my options, hmmmm)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Janine - yes, I'm starting to get the hang of the crotch curve now - not easy.

      No, going down a size is not recommended for triangular figures - but I'm the inverted triangle, so it is probably the right thing to do for me. It's just a matter of learning what works for the body, really :)

      Delete
  5. I am so impressed with your improvement, and figuring it out.. My problem is... I do the muslin, then I have no idea where to go with it from there? ha!!
    the last muslin looks great on you.. Thanks for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi, I guess I start with a plan in mind when I make a muslin - usually the plan changes, or the muslin might suggest that a different fabric should be used.

      Delete
  6. looks great actually ... it is very inspiring :-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I also found this graphic illustration of pant alterations :-)
      http://www.afashionablestitch.com/2011/sewalongs/most-common-pant-alterations/

      Delete
    2. Thank you :) and thank your for the link, I'll pop over there next :)

      Have jsut had a look - and yes, these are the alterations mentioned in most pants fitting books

      Delete
  7. So relieved that I am not alone. For you it's bum, for me it's boobies. Like your crotch problems (pardon me, that sounds extremely personal...) my issues are slowly evolving to reflect that while patterns increase proportionately with each size, our bodies don't. I just discovered that while my rib-cage is an 18, it is a refection of bone structure and I lack the fleshiness of arm that would be expected in someone of my weight (165 pounds) but a foot shorter (I am 5' 10"). I keep making boob adjustments but all my misfitting is armhole. (I'm making that a new euphemism... stupid, freaking, armhole)

    ReplyDelete
  8. Hi, well these blogs get a bit personal - where else would you find so much emphasis on body parts:). Yes, pattern size has nothing to do with underlying frame size - I'm working out that although I am a size 12 bust, I'm really a size 8 but with a prominent front/chest, and need to only increase bust/waist/tummy and then go down to size 8 again. It's frame size that seems to be the important thing. Measure your high bust measurement (under your arm) - that might give you an indication of frame size. Armholes are a pain to fit.

    ReplyDelete