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Monday, June 17, 2013

Trousers - Pocket Bag, Side Front and Zip Insertion.

 Today I am going to show you how to make a pocket bag on a trouser and how to insert a zipper. The picture above shows the front with the slanted pocket.  I have stay taped the front pocket edge on the wrong side.  This is because it is  on the bias grain of the fabric  to stop it stretching. I have laid the pocket bag underneath  and the next picture shows this from the other side.

Pocket Bag laid out, right side showing
 Sew along the seam line to attach the pocket bag:

Sew pocket bag on.
 Next, attach your side front piece, which is the garment fabric.  I have overlocked a portion of this, because I won' t be able to get to it later when it has been sewn.

Side front added
 Stitch around side front piece to make the pocket bag and continue up to the waist line.  The overlock the pocket bag and side front piece along the bottom:

Side front and pocket bag sewn and overlocked
 Turn over to right side and you get a nice pocket opening.  Top stitch this.  Also tack pocket bag and side front to main garment.

Pocket top stitched
 Prepare zip area by finishing along zip facing:  Do this on both sides of the garment front.


Finish zip facing
Press zipper insert allowances as per pattern markings and then:

Insert the zipper on the left hand side of the garment according the the pattern markings:

Insert zipper
 Flip over and sew zip to front facing only left facing on the back of the garment:
Zipper tape - sew to left facing
 Turn garment to right side and top stitch the false fly front opening:

Zipper Front

Now you just have to sew up the pants/trousers - which are going to fit, because you have already done a test muslin, I hope.  Of course, there will still be some fitting left to do, even with a muslin trial, as every pair you cut out will be a slightly different size, and also every material is a different weight - this also affects fit.

Happy sewing everyone:)

Sarah Liz

6 comments:

  1. I haven't tackled pockets in years!thanks for all the great details on how to do pockets,
    Helen

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    Replies
    1. It's a pleasure Helen. You can even do similar ones in elastic waist pants.

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  2. Thanks for sharing .. I need to start on pants too.eeeh.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. They are not so bad really, it's our fear of them that is the problem :)

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  3. You are so far away with this pants! Finger crossed! Tehy will be perfect! But I cannot forget -

    Here is a sweet surprise - I have nominated you for the super sweet blogger award! http://wp.me/p2yS5n-ID

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi Beata, this was a tutorial, so I'm glad people enjoyed it.

    Thank you for nominating me for the super sweet blogger award :)

    ReplyDelete