Pages

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Burda Miss Petite sizing Pants Muslin



As you all know, I have been attempting to fit trousers for most of this year.  I have recently trialled a few patterns and was not very happy with the fit.  I wondered if part of the problem was that I am in the petite height category.  So I decide to trial a Burda style pattern sized for Miss Petite.  The pattern is 7058 - a tapered pant with faced band and side zip. 

As the waist was dropped at the front, and as I have a high back rise, I added extra at both CB and CF - of course, gradually tapering into the rest of the waist band by the side seams.  I also want a waistband as I find this holds the trouser up on me:)

This is my finished muslin, front view first and then the back view:

Front
I cut a size 8 hip and size "11" waist (meaning I added a bit extra to size 10 waist) - I tapered this into the hipline area.  My first crotch was size 8, but this did not sit well and everything pulled into vertical smiley lines, so I lowered the crotch curve.

Back
This is the back view - not nearly as much wrinkling down the legs as I can get.  If you look at the right hand side of the picture, you will see slightly less wrinkling down the leg under my bottom - I undid the original seam and took out a dart of fabric - and it has made a difference.  It's probably why the leg is slightly shorter - that side has had quite rough treatment - I did a couple of different techniques before settling on this one.

Overall, I think Burda Miss Petite is going to work for me - it may not be perfect, but it hasn't given me nearly as many headaches and hassles as other patterns - where the legs just swim on me, even for so called slim fit tapered pants.

This is a slim hipped pant, so I am not sure that it would work for curvier shapes - if you are very full in the hips and thighs, I think the basic pattern would not work for you. 

I'm going to try regular Burda pants as my next muslin - I'm working on muslins at the moment as I want to get ready for summer sewing with patterns already  fitted, so that I can just sew:)

Sarah Liz

6 comments:

  1. I have no experience or expertise in fitting pants, so I'm interested to see your process. To me, the back looks great and the front looks pretty good too - which seems to be an improvement on some of the other patterns you've tried? It must be good to know that you've nearly got it perfect :-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Kat, yes, this pattern was certainly much closer to my shape/measurements than some others - I've also learnt how to accomodate my quirks - I've got quite a high rise - which makes sense, because I am also short waisted.

      Delete
  2. It does look like it is going to work for you. Well done. I was thinking the other day (when reviewing your muslining adventures) the muslin fabric isn't very drapey and I wonder whether that makes it harder or easier to fit.

    ReplyDelete
  3. This pattern looks like a winner to me! It seems to be much easier to fit than the others. I may try this one myself. Thanks for sharing it with us.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Rgina - yes, not much to lose - but do be aware it is a slim fitting hip - pears may need to adjust.

      Delete
  4. Great idea...to work on muslins.. Get the patterns ready, so that when summer gets to you.. You are ready to sew.. Love that plan.
    I bet this petite pattern will work better for you. Best wishes with your muslins.

    ReplyDelete