Pages

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

What size pattern should you use, part 2.

Yesterday I told you about Sandra Betzina's recommendations about choosing a pattern size using either bust measurement or high bust measurement. For those of you who missed this post:
http://sarahlizsewstyle.blogspot.com.au/2013/07/what-size-pattern-should-you-use.html

Quite a few of you confirmed these findings - thank you Regina, Giggles,BeaJay, Godsgirl IT, Nanna (Helen) and Sew Blessed Maw (Judy) for your comments.

Giggles mentioned that many patterns have quite a bit of ease built into them, and that she goes down some sizes.

Regina, Godsgirl IT and Sew Blessed Maw (Judy)  find the patterns too largein the shoulders and neck - I'm assuming you are talking about the Big 4 here.  I also find them too large in the shoulders and neck, so will be using the high bust measurement in the future.

BeaJay thought that she always had to take this measurement, and BeaJay, I think that this is a good idea - a full set of measurements is always a good thing to do. I would not want to suggest otherwise.  Often large busted ladies are not so large in the shoulders and neck, so the high bust measurement is more useful to choose the correct size and then do the Full Bust Alteration.  And do a muslin to check everything.

Nanna (Helen) found that her recent foray into making capri pants showed up some sizing issues - they were far too long and very wide.  If you are short, you will always have to shorten the pattern along the lengthen/shorten lines.  But choosing the right width is difficult - I still struggle here.

Nancy Zieman in her book "Pattern Fitting with confidence"  writes that pants patterns are always too wide in the leg .  She says to choose a pattern size one size down from your hip size to compensate for this.

She writes that hip measurement 34"  should use size 6,   hip measurement 36"  size 8,  hip measurement 38" size, 10 and so on and then alter the upper part of the trouser.

My hip size is size 4- 6 according to this pattern of calculations, and I have been using 8 - because most books tell you to buy the hip size as this is closest to your crotch size.

Thought I would share this with you, because I think from what I read on all your wonderful blogs, baggy legs on trousers seem to be a pretty common theme.

Sarah Liz:)

12 comments:

  1. That info about trouser patterns is really useful. The only pair of trousers I've made do fit pretty well in the body, but even though they are a wide legged style, the legs are VERY wide.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It seems to be the universal phenomenon, according to Ms Zieman.

      Delete
  2. Thanks for sharing . My pants legs are always too wide too..

    ReplyDelete
  3. ALWAYS too wide!

    I'm about to muslin 2 or 3 pants patterns next week. I'm going to try that suggestion of going down to a 16 instead of 18...

    I'm just nervous about then altering waistband pieces! Or would I grade down to the smaller pattern?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I would just grade down and make a muslin. Ms Zieman gives lots of ideas about pivoting patterns and redrawing, while other people say with a multi size pattern to choose the lines that suit and blend the two sizes.

      Delete
  4. As far as pants go I'm not there yet... but for tops I'm choosing the size that is closest to my shoulders and waist, and then do an FBA (this is for Burda patterns). If I would go for bust size I'd have to go up a size, and then have to adjust the armscyes, shoulders and waist. So I figured going down a size and do an FBA was easier. I've been using an adapted pattern as my basic bodice block to see how much ease is used in a pattern. I plan to make an even better fitting basic bodice block.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That's exactly the approach Sandra Betzina would recommend - choose for your shoulders and neck (high bust measurement) and then alter for the bust. Good luck with your next block - I'll have to follow your example here one day.

      Delete
  5. This would make sense why my first pair of pants turned out well. I had to use a size smaller because it was the largest size in the packet I bought and it fits me pretty well. It was a straight leg style too so not a lot of bum fitting problems since it just fell straight. I'm nervous about taking the leg shape in though...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm glad your first attempt worked well - and even straight leg pants can have fitting issues in the bottom. I am not sure about taking leg shapes in - a little would be alright I should think, but I am also reading a patternmaking book that says the crotch depth has to be different for different styles of pants. I still have a lot to learnt about pants.

      Delete
  6. I am a little late to these posts...my husband hit a deer on his motorcycle and I have been nursing him. Okay, as for the too wide pants=yes I agree. I cut a 14 or even a 16 and my pants are hideously large. I'm going to try a 12 and see what happens. I have had good success with Clovers as the draft and sizing are RTW.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Hitting a deer is not good luck - I hope your husband isn't too badly knocked around, my best wishes for his speedy recovery.

    Yes, I have seen some of your wide leg pants turned pj's. I'll get a Clover pattern when they are next available and see what they are like.

    ReplyDelete