Wednesday, July 24, 2013
What size pattern should you use, part 2.
Quite a few of you confirmed these findings - thank you Regina, Giggles,BeaJay, Godsgirl IT, Nanna (Helen) and Sew Blessed Maw (Judy) for your comments.
Giggles mentioned that many patterns have quite a bit of ease built into them, and that she goes down some sizes.
Regina, Godsgirl IT and Sew Blessed Maw (Judy) find the patterns too largein the shoulders and neck - I'm assuming you are talking about the Big 4 here. I also find them too large in the shoulders and neck, so will be using the high bust measurement in the future.
BeaJay thought that she always had to take this measurement, and BeaJay, I think that this is a good idea - a full set of measurements is always a good thing to do. I would not want to suggest otherwise. Often large busted ladies are not so large in the shoulders and neck, so the high bust measurement is more useful to choose the correct size and then do the Full Bust Alteration. And do a muslin to check everything.
Nanna (Helen) found that her recent foray into making capri pants showed up some sizing issues - they were far too long and very wide. If you are short, you will always have to shorten the pattern along the lengthen/shorten lines. But choosing the right width is difficult - I still struggle here.
Nancy Zieman in her book "Pattern Fitting with confidence" writes that pants patterns are always too wide in the leg . She says to choose a pattern size one size down from your hip size to compensate for this.
She writes that hip measurement 34" should use size 6, hip measurement 36" size 8, hip measurement 38" size, 10 and so on and then alter the upper part of the trouser.
My hip size is size 4- 6 according to this pattern of calculations, and I have been using 8 - because most books tell you to buy the hip size as this is closest to your crotch size.
Thought I would share this with you, because I think from what I read on all your wonderful blogs, baggy legs on trousers seem to be a pretty common theme.