Tuesday, July 23, 2013
What size pattern should you use?
I often find garments far too large in the neck and shoulder, while still being firm around my bust. I figure the bust bit is easy to work out - I have a small back, so I need to make the front a little bigger than the back. But it isn't so easy to make the neck, armscye and shoulders smaller.
Sandra Betzina, in her book "Fast Fit - Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure" writes that for the Big $ (Simplicity, Butterick, McCall's and Vogue - you should use the high bust measurements as the upper chest area in these patterns is large. The exception to this is with the Today's Fit range from Vogue patterns.
For the other companies - Kwik Sew, Neue Mode, New Look, Burda, and independent companies - use the full bust measurement.
To take a full bust measurement measure around the fullest part of the bust and across the line of your bra band in the back.
To take a high bust measurement, place the tape measure under the arm and higher than the bra band in the back - your chest measurement.
I wish I had known this years ago - the Big 4 certainly don't make all this very clear.
I thought a few of you may also not know and would appreciate this knowledge.