Pages

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

No little jacket just yet...

Well, I had great hopes of making a little cotton wearable muslin jacket, but I had another learning experience instead...
As you can see, the jacket is far too big across the shoulders.  I had already made the shoulder half an inch narrower, and also taken in the armscye to match.  I had taken in the back and remover some of the wrinkling, but as you can see, a lot of fullness still remains in the upper back.

I get this look with all my RTW clothes as well - one reason I want to make my own, because I am rather tired of looking look a saggy clothing sack. 

I had no idea that I had such a petite frame, but it seems I do. That is blogging - I never used to take photo's of my back, so I didn't really know what I looked like. A blissfully ignorant state of affairs, but no more :).

I checked two of my fitting books and it seems I have to make a narrow back adjustment.  I'm also narrow across the upper chest, so I would need to adjust there as well.




Sandra Betzina's book shows the problem well.
Yes, well, that sort of looks like me, doesn't it?  Sandra shows the alteration, which consists of slicing the pattern vertically to the waist (2 lines parallel) and then moving them across to overlap half an inch or so, then adding back as the side back seams to allow for the hip. 

The Perfect Fit - same adjustment
 The "Perfect Fit" suggests the same adjustment.  Which is a lot to do, and will need  two muslins.  Which I am not prepared to do now.  So, Burda jacket 7559 will have to wait for a while now.

When you look at the photo, you can see it is a little large on the model as well - but then models are as bony and narrow as me. 

I like the jacket, but if I am going to make this, it needs to be made well. Not now.

My earlier attempt was so loose and cardigan like and sloppy it worked! (Pre-blog, I threw it together very quickly, wore it to death, and threw it out).  Who would have thought a crinkly cotton would make a good jacket.  Must look for some more, for a summer throw on, sloppy cardigan jacket.

Not sure what I am going to make next.  Choices...

Sarah Liz :)


4 comments:

  1. Hi Sarah, I also have a narrow upper chest and somewhat narrow back. However, we differ in that I am bigger than you in the bust and hips. BUT, I hit the same problem with my first tailored jacket which was V7976 Review-http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/45794
    I went down 2 sizes and then graded up in places. It was very surprising to me. The jacket fits like a glove. I understand why you are going to wait-I spent 4-5 weeks on my jacket.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Mary, - I'll look up your review and find out what you did - like trousers, it will be worth it in the end to get a good fit, but you do have to allow lots of time. It's fantastic that you ended up with a good fit - there is nothing like a good jacket to make you feel good. Most of my RTW's are too baggy on the back as well. Interesting how we are all such different shapes.

      Delete
  2. Aw, sorry that jacket didn't turn out right :( It does look a little oversized on the pattern, like the model is wearing a too large jacket. I hope you can save it at a later date.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Elise, yes, these things happen - I have saved the muslin so that I can have a look later :)

      Delete