Today we are going to add the collar and facings and stitch the side seams together:
The instructions ask you to sew both collar sections (one is interfaced, one is not) together. (The collar piece was interfaced in Tutorial 1). At the corner, make two very small stitches diagonally across the corner.
Once you have sewn the pieces together, trim the seams in layers: Here is my first layer:
In the next photo I have trimmed the second seam back:
(Commercial patterns for homesewers have generous seam allowances for collars and facings. In patternmaking for real commercial enterprises, ie RTW, the seam allowances are much smaller, 1/4 inch (1 cm) - to eliminate trimming which takes time and is thus not economically viable).
Here is a picture of the corner (my diagonal stitches are not very large on this collar). You can also see the trimmed layers:
(you will not a little notch in the collar - that is the centre back - I always mark the CB or CF with a little notch for matching purposes).
SARAH LIZ HANDY HINT:
( You will notice that I am actually rolling the collar in the direction it will rolling when worn. This is because these two collar pieces are cut the same, whereas in a well tailored shirt the undercollar is always a tiny bit smaller. This is because the upper collar rolls over the under collar and thus needs a tiny bit more length. Not much, but it makes a difference. )
Match collar markings to shirt markings and hand baste the collar to the shirt. Over that place the facings, match the markings, and tack to the shirt and collar pieces. (refer to your instruction sheet here, because if you haven't done it before, it will seem a little tricky at first):
Now check the collar pieces:
Also check the turn back sections of the shirt/facing - they should also be the same length (I haven't pushed the corners out fully yet) (see below):
And here is the finished collar and facing:
I like to top stitch my collar turn backs, but this is my addition. The pattern just tells you to press the facings. I also take the top stitching all across the front and back facing as I find these sorts of facings flap out. But this is what I like to do as I like the sporty look in plain shirts:
Here is a picture of my finished collar and revers:
Side seam with flat fell seam ready to sew down:
That's enough for one day. The shirt is not far off being finished now. Tomorrow I will show you the sleeves.
But before I go:
SARAH LIZ NOTE: Often you will find that patterns stipulate that the undercollar be faced. I do this frequently, especially for jackets, as it gives a firm foundation to the collar. I have found with broadcloth though, that it looks better done the other way around - broadcloth is a bit wrinkly, and the interfacing out on the collar, matches the interfacing out of the front facing. I use a good interfacing, so this works. Some of the cheaper ones really don't look good on the outside, so be careful what you do here. Always check your interfacing and finish first and have a good look and feel before deciding).
Sarah Liz :)