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Saturday, August 3, 2013

Tutorial - New Look 6963.


Over the next few days I am going to show you how this New Look Blouse (6963) makes up.  I am going to make version C with the short sleeves.  I have made this pattern up before so I know what size to use - if you haven't made it before, you may make a muslin to test it.  It is a roomy blouse, so I used size 8 for the shoulders and size 10 for the body.  I also shortened my pattern just above the waist as I am short waisted.

The pattern is for a simple blouse collar (no collar stand) with front and back facings.

Here is a picture of the original blouse I made:


As you can see, it does look like the pattern.  It's also good to see the blouse made up so you know what to expect the next time you make it :)

I'll be posting this tutorial over a few days as I make up the next blouse.  This will also show you  how I time manage my sewing.  I don't get large chunks of sewing time, so I usually break a project down into steps.

I am going to use a cotton broadcloth that I have already pre-shrunk. 

Assemble your notions (always a good idea to have purchased these before you start).



Next - iron the pattern pieces so that they are smooth - this way your pattern will not distort- use a cool iron with no steam.

Then cut out the shirt pieces - I am assuming you all know how to do this.

Snip notches (I snip in, not very far as this will weaken the seam).  Mark all dots on the pattern with whatever medium you wish - chalk, disappearing markers, tailor's tacks.  I very rarely use tailor's tacks nowadays.  Do check that your pen will not permanently bond with your fabric or that if water is used to dissolve it, that this will not leave water marks on your fabric.


Interface the front facing pieces, the back facing and one collar section.  It's a good idea to test the interfacing first to make sure it is the right weight and works well with your fabric.  Some interfacings need pre-shrinking.

Test interfacing.
I always use a press cloth so that bits of interfacing do not stick to the iron- old hankies work well.

This hankie has been used on black interfacing in the past - hence the black specks.  Press interfacing at the recommended heat using the heat/pressure method (this means press firmly and hold until the interfacing is well fused - don't attempt to iron the interfacing on).

If you are pleased with the results, apply to the garment pieces:


The finished pieces should have a similar feel to the main fabric, but with more body.  The interfaced pieces should also handle like the fabric- this fabric is a medium weave cotton, and is not stiff.  Here is how the interfacing behaves:


It has the right sort of feel for the lapel and collar section of this shirt.

Next, get your machine set up for sewing by winding and inserting the bobbin and threading the needle.



 Test the sewing stitch length and tension:






And if you have an overlocker, thread that up now and test the tension for that as well:





Okay, that's today's sewing session done.  Tomorrow I'll start sewing the blouse.

Sarah Liz :)





10 comments:

  1. You do make great shirts. I might have to sew along with this one if I can eek out some time this weekend. I'm almost sure I have that pattern. By chance would you also consider doing a tutorial for a collar with a stand maybe next time. That is my weakness.

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    1. Faye, I will post it in tutorials when the posts are finished, so you can find it. I'll make a page at the top of the blog. I'll certainly put a collar with stand on my list to show you in the future.

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  2. I love this pattern, and the pink broadcloth will be so pretty and cool..
    I sew in chunks , like this too.. Occasionally, I will get the chance to sit and sew for hours, but not normally.. Happy sewing.

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    1. Yes it is a lovely pattern and cotton is cool for summer. It's nice when there is a chunk of time to sew, but, as you say, rare.

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  3. Your blouses look so crisp and airy-I'll enjoy watching this process.

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  4. I definitely sew in chunks - I doubt there are many women who can just sit down and power through an item! We're all leading busy and interesting lives, of course.

    Look forward to seeing the end product :-)

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    1. That's true Kat. I hope the posts are useful:)

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  5. I love your white shirt, this would be great for work. Can't wait to see the pink one. I have a similar pattern but not from New Look. Maybe I will look for the pattern and place it on my sewing bucket list, as I have a couple of projects planned already. Love your tutorials by the way.

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  6. Thank you Awilda - this is a nice pattern to make up, but you can make it in your own good time. Looking forward to seeing your planned projects soon :)

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