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Sunday, August 4, 2013

Tutorial part 2. New Look 6963.



On Sundays I usually welcome new followers to my blog - so I would like to say hello to Fairuz and Rene.

Today I am going to continue my real time tutorial in the making of New Look 6963.  I am using version C.

I have made this blouse before:

Okay, on with today's segment.  I often do my sewing in little blocks, in between everything else that life demands. From your comments it seems that you do as well.

The instructions start with stay stitching the front and back neck of the yoke and front pieces.  It also asks you to sew the bust dart:


Stay stitch back neck of yoke.  Small stitches just inside the seamline
Stay stitch the front neck edges.

Sew bust darts- already marked yesterday
Next, the instructions ask you to stitch the back darts:

Picture to the right, Back C, sew darts
Bust darts sewn
Press darts to centre of garment, or down for the bust darts to meld the stitches. Be careful not to leave an imprint on the right side of the fabric - I sometimes put paper under the dart so that the imprint does not show. 

Press back darts to centre
Sometimes you find that the instructions will ask you to clip darts like this.  If the garment was lined, I probably would, but for a house blouse I know that this dart sits reasonably well, so I am not going to clip it - it will fray unless I hand overlock every clip.  And I wouldn't like the look of that.  I would rather the slight puckers.

Bust dart pressed down.

Now I am going to add a Sarah Liz touch.  I am using a cheap broadcloth that really doesn't look that great without something added.  I love topstitching, so I am going to add some now - to the darts to add a sporty look.  There is a bit of crinkling around the back dart, but my RTW sporty blouses have a lot more!

I have overexposed the next photo as the stitching did not show at all:

My addition - top stitch back darts, two inches in from either end.
My addition: Front dart topstitched to within half an inch of end point.
Next the instructions ask you to sew the front and back pieces to the yoke:

Front and back pieces sewn to yoke.
 This pattern onl;y uses one yoke piece and would advise you to press up.  You will need to finish the seams in whatever way you like - zig zag, pinking, overlocking, whatever your preferred method.

As I like the topstitched sporty look, I have decided to use a flat fell seam - this is where you trim a seam back and then fold the other one over and under.  Like jeans.  A lovely clean finish.

Trim seam back

Fold seam over and stitch.
That's it for today - tomorrow I will show you how the collar, back facing and front facing go together.

Yesterdays post showed you my preparing the interfaced pieces so that they are ready for sewing.

More tomorrow...

Sarah Liz


3 comments:

  1. Thanks for this series :) I like seeing how the pattern works and your additions to give it your own personal touch.

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  2. Me too! I am really getting a feel for how this pattern - or any buttondown pattern works. Thanks for this series!

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