|New Look 6963|
This tutorial series has covered the making of New Look 6963, shirt/blouse version C.
I've made it before, so I know that it acutally works well. It has a collar, back facing and front facing.
Today we are up to the last stage - the buttonholes.
I always have a bit of a thing with buttonholes - I don't have an automatic buttonhole on my machine, and have to rely on what is called "operator skill".
If you have an automatic buttonholer, you will find my lines and measurements unnecessary - you will just need to mark where your buttonhole starts.
Some of you may do hand buttonholes, in which case work them the way you normally do.
In your pattern you will find a piece called "buttonhole guide". It does both the long and short versions of this shirt.
Version C only uses 4 buttonholes, so mark these. I mark the top, then I assess what size I need to make the buttonhole.
Next, I make a sample of my buttonhole size - I make a small strip that is interfaced - much like a facing:
I tend to do this by eye now - quite a few guides say allow an 1/8 inch, but this is too much for small buttons. The amount you need also depends on the depth of the button. I just have a feel now for how much I need:
(Please make sure you put a dot for the buttonhole that is on the centre front line. You can see I have actually drawn mine. You may not need to if you have an automatic buttonholer - you will just need your placement point. I need vertical and diagonal lines because I have to do my buttonholes using zig zag either side of the line and a bar tack either end).
Here are my lines:
And now for a test run:
The buttonhole is okay so I shall proceed.
Before I do my "real" buttonholes, I always check the bobbin - there is nothing worse than running out half way through a buttonhole. It all has to be undone:
Now we need to get rid of all those ends. Don't snip the ends, but thread them through to the back and fasten off there. Otherwise the ends can start unravelling:
Having made our buttonholes (and I do hope you have an automatic buttonholer - it makes life so much easier), now we have to open them. Do this very carefully down the centre of the buttonhole. Use your stitch unpicker. Place a pin just before the bar tacks at the end of the buttonhole so that you don't accidentally cut through the end. Go very carefully and slowly down to the end, then turn the buttonhole around and open up to the other end:
Next step is to sew on the buttonholes. I tend to mark them by lining up my facings and then placing a pin through the buttonhole:
And then marking the corresponding dot on the CF line of the button side of the garment:
Sew on your buttons and voila:
We are done. The blouse is finished except for tacking down the facing at the front yoke seam:
If you use a disappearing marker like mine, it is water soluble (some are air soluble). I know I can use this marker on this fabric. Always test your markers, because not all of them come out, and not all fabrics are suitable. I use a squirt bottle:
Tomorrow I will finish this series with a few hints for you before you rush off and start this blouse :)
Sarah Liz :)