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Friday, August 9, 2013

Tutorial part 7 - parting words. New Look 6963.



This is the last of this series on New Look 6963.  Sandra suggested labelling it as a tutorial, which I have done, so that you can easily find it again.

New Look 6963 is a lovely simple beginner's shirt - you will note that it is marked easy, which is why I chose it for this tutorial.  I think it is still available but there are plenty of other shirts like this at the moment.

The pattern has variations in collar shape, and also has a three fold front band (really nice look), and sleeve variations.


Do make a quick muslin first to check the fit and to practice the steps your particular pattern advises.   You will also find out if all the pattern pieces fit together well, and what sort of ease the sleeve cap has (many commercial patterns have excess ease in the sleeves which has to be removed).

Sometimes I see if the shirt I want to make has been reviewed on pattern review.  This one has quite a few reviews and they are all good, except for a quibble about the yoke not being faced.  That is easy to do if you want to, but then you would have to finish the collar over the yoke, and not with a facing.
  
The little shirt above was my sample - I tend to use cheap fabrics and trial the whole pattern - if it works, then I have a garment, if not, if it is not going to work, I move on.  If it does not work due to my own limitations, I learn what to do, and make another. This one did and being a cotton, even though a cheap one, it is wonderfully wearable on a hot summer day.

I did find that the bust point was low for me so I needed to raise it.  Your muslin should tell you whether the dart is right for you.  Also, for very full busted girls, this shirt may not have enough room over the bust - you may need to add extra, or alternatively, work with a princess line that will accommodate your curves after adding for a larger cup size.

I did not tell you to press as you sew - I am assuming that you already know this. 
Press as you sew - then iron at the end.

Sleeves- Sandra commented that sewing them in is a bit pin -prickly - yes, it is - but it is quite okay to hand baste seams before you sew.  Somewhere we seem to get the idea that everything needs to be quick, but there is nothing wrong with tacking first. Especially for a tricky job, or if you are new to something.  

If you have never made a button down shirt or blouse before, your first may not be perfect.  Don't be hard on yourself if you make mistakes - I still make plenty, especially if I am trying something new or trying to solve a problem.   Mistakes are just a way of saying you are trying and learning. 

Reading yesterdays comments, it seems quite a few of you are worried about buttonholes.  I agree, that is quite a stressful job - it is easy to ruin things at the last moment.  I worked with a brilliant sample machinist once and she still got anxious with buttonholes. 

And some of you don't have automatic buttonhole functions on your machines, which makes the job trickier.  

I thought I would run some buttonhole tutes next week.  I grew up having to make buttonholes by hand, so I might teach you how to do those as well (sometimes I even repair a botched buttonhole by reworking by hand around it).

I'm going to make another one now - this shirt is a great basic for summer wardrobes, handy for those occasions when you want to be casual but a little bit smart as well.  I'll also press this one and re-arrange it on the dummy so that it sits better for my formal gallery photo!



I'd also like to thank you all for your wonderful comments and support.  I am new to writing tutorials for blogs (I have done plenty at University in a different area of expertise) so this one has taught me a little bit about how to go about the  process.

Do have a good weekend wherever you are, wishing you good health, good cheer and good sewing.

Sarah Liz

20 comments:

  1. You did a brilliant job! I admire your ability to make a tutorial for each step of this shirt, so much work and so many sewing skills in it! The shirt is perfect! You are great!

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  2. You really did a great job on the tutorial. I know it took a lot of time & work. And your pink shirt is so nice!

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  3. What a nice summary of this process-I love the gentle reminders about progress and learning. My first collared blouses and shirts were not pretty on the inside and still, I wore them with pride.

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    1. Thank you Mary - and I think we should wear our me mades with pride - some of the RTW is not pretty on the inside either :)

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  4. Thank you so much for writing this tutorial, I will definitely use it when I'll be making my first real blouse! Checking Pattern Review is a smart idea, and I'm going to do more hand basting. Sometimes I stare myself blind on how to make it easier for myself when I find something difficult, so it's very handy to have your experience at hand :) And I'm looking forward to reading about the buttonholes, I don't have a buttonhole maker though the ones I made were ok, but I'd love to know how to make them really pretty by hand.

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    1. Thank you Elise. I'm starting to organise my thoughts about the buttonhole tutorial.

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  5. This series was so informative. Thank you!

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  6. Hi SarahLiz - I’ve awarded you the ‘Super Sweet Award’ – hope this is ok – you can find out all about it in the 6 August post on my blog.

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    1. Yes, quite okay Diane - but it will take me a while to do the next stage...

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  7. Sarah Liz, this is a very nice summary of this project. I appreciate your labeling it so that we can find it again. I think you did an excellent job with this tutorial; I like how you broke it up into parts. (I seem to think that a tutorial has to be complete, all in one post, which makes it 1) really long and 2) a bigger task than breaking it down into steps. Thank you again.

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    1. Yes, doing it in parts was the logical way to go. Glad you appreciated the posts.

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  8. Hi Sarah Liz - I have just found your tutorial and you are now bookmarked! I have a shirt on my list to do and, being a slightly retentive sewing technique researcher, I will be back to read it all properly before embarking on my shirt make.

    Thank you for posting the series!

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  9. It is great of you to share the task of making this wonderful shirt!

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  10. I just wanted to thank you, even at this late date (I just found you a few weeks ago), for your tutorial on this blouse. I just finished reading and following it. The facings and collar bit was a bit rough for me, but I got through it thanks to you and I am glad that I practiced on a muslin. It actually turned out better than I thought; and I now will be trying it on my fabric. Thank you, thank you...it has been a real learning experience for me and just what I needed.

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    1. I am glad this post helped you. And next time collars and facings will be easier :)

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