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Friday, September 20, 2013

Scary September- Flounce Alteration Idea

Some of us are participating in the Scary September challenge hosted by :
www.ontheroadtosewwear.blogspot.com

One participant I think is making a knit top with a flounce at the bottom.  (Well, I know who you are, but I don't want to speak out of turn, or embarrass you).  An adjustment has to be made for a full tummy, which means that a flounce at the bottom of the bodice will also need altering.

Now I am only a home sewer and not a pattern maker, but I just wondered if this could be the solution.  Below please see a very quick sketch of a flounce.  The upper edge attaches to the bodice bottom:


You will notice I have marked dotted lines within the flounce - one at the centre front, and then two either side.  I would slash and spread the intervening sections of flounce, much like you would for an A-Line skirt.  Because the outer edge of the flounce is a wider circle (remember geometry here), the top of the spread area will be narrower than the bottom:


Not very clear here, but I was sketching these over my early morning cuppa before going to the office to do some bills!  But if you look you will see I have tried to keep the trajectory of the curve.

I would trace my pattern piece first, so that I have something to cut and play with - and the "real" pattern is there to be traced again if you make a mistake.

I would measure the width of my altered bodice front pieces.  I would then know how wide my inner flounce curve (the seam that meets the bodice bottom) needs to be.  I would divide this amount by 4 (the number of cuts I am going to make ) and then spread the cuts by that amount.  Keep the trajectory of the curve, and you will note that the bottom area will spread too, but by a slightly greater amount.

I don't think it would matter if the curve flattens a bit - I haven't actually seen the pattern pieces, only the picture of the top.   I think you could sew out any excess at the sides.  Have a play with a scrap first.

Other people may have better suggestions, but I thought, for what it is worth, this idea may work.

Does anyone else have another way of solving this problem?

Sarah Liz :)



6 comments:

  1. Not too sure exactly how the flounce is fitting but I would start with a rectangle the length and depth required to fit around the top, then I would evenly slash into the flounce vertically, then spread the the bottom edge of the pieces until you have the desired outer finishing edge measurement, this would form a curly shape dependent on how flounce you want it.. Basically the same result but different approach I have found an image on sew tawdry,s blog here http://sewtawdry.blogspot.co.uk/2011_10_01_archive.html

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    1. Sort of different, and sort of the same - same principle I think :)

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  2. Thanks for the pics and thoughts Sarah Liz. This top has several flounces attached and I think this might work. The hard part is knowing how much to add to each flounce as they are different sizes and shapes..... Just the design of this particular top.

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  3. It's a pleasure BeaJay - I agree, not easyto calculate, I had a look at your top. Do the pattern alterations and then do a muslin from anything for the bodice front, and add the new frill. A woven might be best for this as it is not likely to give. If okay, proceed, otherwise tweak.

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