(For those of you that don't know about Scary September, Beverley, aka BeaJay is holding a challenge this month about facing scary parts of sewing you usually avoid - for more info visit: www.ontheroadtosewwear.blogspot.com
So, as part of Scary September, I am revisiting pants. I want to work out what sort of changes I need to make to patterns so that in the future I just automatically know what I need to do for my shape. Tedious learning, but I am sure it will be worth it. I traced the pattern on Tuesday, which took about half an hour:
On Tuesday evening I quickly sewed the muslin together and took photographs - that took me about half an hour:
Now, usually I give you lots of detail about which pattern I am using and so on - I will give you all that when I finally complete these trousers for Scary September. But for the moment I am concentrating on time management and sewing. So I haven't taken my glasses off, or worried about cutting my feet off in the photo. That's not my current project.
So, I can see these pants, far from being a relaxed, slouchy sort of pant, just look baggy, big on the hips and ill fitting. And far from sitting once inch below my waist, are much lower than that. So after a quick think, some tacking, fiddling and more try ons decided that I have a high rise - which figures, because I have a short waist. So I decided to increase the rise.
This meant more tracing on Wednesday - not fun, because I had to think about pocket bags and side fronts - none of which were marked with lengthen/shorten lines. Also, I had to remove width from legs, inner and outer, and make the legs longer, not a sort of bowed shape, which these are. Altogether, it was tedious. I had to do all sorts of things yesterday, work, dentist, cooking, pay the lawn man, washing. So it took me all day - I had the bits laid out, and when I had a cuppa, did some more tracing. It was not enjoyable work at all, mostly cos I wasn't focused and had lots of interruptions while I also needed to think.
|Lengthening the back rise|
I kept the original crotch depth, and marked a lower crotch if I need it. It could be that altering the rise gives me the crotch depth I need. Anyway, you can always cut fabric away if need be, but you can't add it back if you have already cut it away.
I redrew the pocket bag and side front pieces - as I was also cutting bits away, I added more towards the centre front aspect of the pocket bag/side front pieces otherwise the pocket will not actually be big enough to be a pocket. I also had to alter the pocket curve - I didn't like the original curve much anyway, so that was okay with me!
I also had to redraw the front facing - I needed a little more at the centre front of the trouser, which meant of course, the facing was wrong.
So, I had to totally rework the whole pattern. Total time must have been about one hour, but this was fragmented throughout the day.
Today, I quickly cut out the second muslin, and stitched it - total time 30 mins. I tried it on and it works - but I haven't had time to take a photo yet.
I did retrace the pocket bags and side front pieces as well - they just needed a bit more on one side and a bit less on the other. That took 10 minutes.
I am now ready to cut - but that will have to wait until Saturday or Sunday. I need to finish my Scary September skirt first!