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Thursday, September 19, 2013

Scary September - Timemanagement Thursday

This week has been one of those weeks - but having Scary September goals has helped to keep me focused on getting some sewing  and sewing preparation done.  Unfortunately in bits and pieces. Funnily enough, some of you have been talking about busy lives and not being able to sew, and how this is upsetting for you.  I too am about to resume a  busy life - I had a bit of a disappointment this year, in that I did not get a place in Psychology Honours, but the applications start again soon, and I am hopeful...I know more about the process now.  Applications are very time consuming - takes me a full week to do just one.  I've also got to get the roof replaced on the house, and fix the kitchen and run my husband's practice - he says it has never run so smoothly as when I helped out in a crisis and sort of still am.  Past experience has taught me that when I get busy, I ignore sewing, and then wear ill fitting ready to wear clothes that I hate, then I am miserable etc - I'm sure you all know the process.  So I am trying to work out how to carve out sewing time so that I can get bits done, and then have a focused session once a week.   With a plan to make one garment a month.   Some of you are joining me on that challenge.

(For those of you that don't know about Scary September, Beverley, aka BeaJay is holding a challenge this month about facing scary parts of sewing you usually avoid - for more info visit: www.ontheroadtosewwear.blogspot.com

So, as part of Scary September, I am revisiting pants. I want to work out what sort of changes I need to make to patterns so that in the future I just automatically know what I need to do for my shape.  Tedious learning, but I am sure it will be worth it.   I traced the pattern on Tuesday, which took about half an hour:



On Tuesday evening I quickly sewed the muslin together  and took photographs - that took me about half an hour:


Now, usually I give you lots of detail about which pattern I am using and so on - I will give you all that when I finally complete these trousers for Scary September.   But for the moment I am concentrating on time management and sewing.  So I haven't taken my glasses off, or worried about cutting my feet off in the photo.  That's not my current project.

So, I can see these pants, far from being a relaxed, slouchy sort of pant, just look baggy, big on the hips and ill fitting.  And far from sitting once inch below my waist, are much lower than that.  So after a quick think, some tacking, fiddling and more try ons decided that I have a high rise - which figures, because I have a short waist.  So I decided to increase the rise.

This meant more tracing on Wednesday - not fun, because I had to think about pocket bags and side fronts - none of which were marked with lengthen/shorten lines.  Also, I had to remove width from legs, inner and outer, and make the legs longer, not a sort of bowed shape, which these are.  Altogether, it was tedious.  I had to do all sorts of things yesterday, work, dentist, cooking, pay the lawn man, washing.  So it took me all day - I had the bits laid out, and when I had a cuppa, did some more tracing.  It was not enjoyable work at all, mostly cos I wasn't focused and had lots of interruptions while I also needed to think.


Lengthening the back rise

I kept the original crotch depth, and marked a lower crotch if I need it.  It could be that altering the rise gives me the crotch depth I need. Anyway, you can always cut fabric away if need be, but you can't add it back if you have already cut it away.


I redrew the pocket bag and side front pieces - as I was also cutting bits away, I added more towards the centre front aspect of the pocket bag/side front pieces otherwise the pocket will not actually be big enough to be a pocket.   I also had to alter the pocket curve - I didn't like the original curve much anyway, so that was okay with me!



I also had to redraw the front facing - I needed a little more at the centre front of the trouser, which meant of course, the facing was wrong.

So, I had to totally rework the whole pattern.  Total time must have been about one hour, but this was fragmented throughout the day.

Today, I quickly cut out the second muslin, and stitched it - total time 30 mins.  I tried it on and it works - but I  haven't had time to take a photo yet.

I did retrace the pocket bags and side front pieces as well - they just needed a bit more on one side and a bit less on the other.  That took 10 minutes.

I am now ready to cut - but that will have to wait until Saturday or Sunday.  I need to finish my Scary September skirt first!

Sarah Liz

12 comments:

  1. Fingers crossed. I have faith that you will come out with a great pair of pants.

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    1. Thanks BeaJay - the original concept has changed, but I'll be following through on a pair of pants, promise:)

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  2. al this tweaking will be worthwhile in the end.

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  3. Success! I will wait a while with my muslin :-) but I will pick it up this year for sure!

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  4. All the best with your honours application!

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  5. Once you have finished a good muslin, you are 80% of the way to a closet full of nicely fitting pants. Keep it up, it's worth the effort! Good luck with the honors program.

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    1. Hi Carole - I have one or two pants successes,but I also like to try new things.

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  6. I'll be watching and cheering you on in this pants project. My last pair was disasterous.

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    1. Oh dear, I wondered what happened, as I remember the pants plan. Time will tell what becomes of these :)

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