|New Look 6095|
Well, New Look 6095 "Easy"' is certainly quick and easy to sew as a muslin - here are the sleeves now inserted - as you see, the shoulders are straight up and down on me, and the picture on the pattern (on the model and on the sketches show them out at a slight angle. They also sit like this on some of the dresses I have seen reviewed on Pattern Review.
The back not so bad, but this is due more to my narrow back than shoulder width. And you can see the pocketing and pouching on my upper back. Inserting the sleeves has not made much difference to the back (and why would it?).
I retraced the pattern and altered the shoulder so that it was longer, and recurved the armscye.
Then I recut the top - I don't need to check the length, so this one is shorter. I also altered the neckline - I added 5/8 inch, and slightly rounded the front and took out a little bit. I added 5/8 inch to the back neck.
Here is Muslin No. 2. I'm smiling because after the shoulder/arm alteration the sleeves at least fit. I also like the length of the sleeves so I will have to add a hem allowance as if these were hemmed they would be too short - I have athletic, bony shoulders and don't want them to "poke out".
The sleeves/shoulders work on the back too. I have also taken the zip in, but it hasn't sorted out the back issues - in fact there is more wrinkling:
And the side wrinkles have worsened, and the back curvature pouch is still there. My back does not curve like that in this spot.
Back to the drawing board....
(I'm in and out of the garden today watering and what not, and also doing the washing - so I'm wearing thongs and casual me made pants...and at home hair !.)
Another muslin - number three. Getting shorter as I am running out of the old sheet I have been using.
As I have a narrow back and a short waist, I decided to shorten the waist at the front just above the waist (the standard position) and just under the arm for the back. I thought this would raise the curve area to more my natural curve. I was right, but the pulls are still there - and there is quite a curve in the small of the back that emphasizes the back curve. Not sure I like the degree of curve here - looks like an early kyphosis, which thank goodness I do not have.
I suppose I could always belt the dress to try and hide the problems:
But it doesn't seem to help. Hmmm. I'll think about this for a while...
Back to the chores and the watering...
I had a thought last night - the dress is pulling from bust point right through to the back. I put the dress on (just before bed) and the seams were distorted at the front towards my bust point.
The next morning I checked the pattern again. Ease for the bust was 4 inches, hips and waist 5 inches. Now, I have a narrow back, which means that the front is too tight, hence the distortion. I also have a "thick"waist - two inches larger than the pattern size 10. I decided to let out the dress about one inch below the arm to high hip level, so that I have the same amount of ease as the pattern suggests in all areas. I know 4 inches is a lot of ease, but on a woven sometimes you need it - and a shift is supposed to be loose.
I started with size 10 - 32 inch bust, waist 25 inches, hips 34.5 inches. I measure bust 34 inches (if I really breath out), waist 26.5 - 27 inches, hips 34 inches. So I have a larger bust than the pattern allows for. And with a small back, my bust (which is really more rib cage with a poor excuse of a bust attached) means that the dress is tighter at the front than the pattern suggests. Hence the diagonal lines from bust to backside. In addition, the waist is supposed to be smaller - this is probably also pulling the back in. And shifts are supposed to be loose.
The next morning I checked the pattern again. Ease for the bust was 4 inches, hips and waist 5 inches. I altered my pattern again (fourth tracing) to reflect this ease.
I decided to cut straight into my fabric - it is a very cheap craft cotton, and I already know the dress basically works, so I'll just risk it. I'll still have a wearable garment for hot days, even if not perfect.
Well, I'm off to see what happens....
I'll let you know what happens next week - because on Saturday I will be writing my next post and it will be a summary of what all of you are doing for your Make a Garment a Month Challenge. So many wonderful projects are in the pipeline ...
Til then, take care wherever you are,