Sewing and Style

A blog for anyone interested in sewing their own clothes and creating a sense of personal style...


Friday, December 6, 2013

Butterick 5917, Muslin #2

I plan to make this lovely and very popular dress (Butterick B5917) as my December garment of the month.  I am going to use a blue seersucker.

I have made the first muslin for this dress.  Specifically my fitting problems are :

1/. A very upright back which is much narrower in depth than my front (if you run a midline down my body).

2/.  A prominent rib cage - even though I am slight, my rib cage is actually quite large.  My ribcage measures 32 inches, my bust at it's widest point 33.5 inches.

Most things do not fit - this is in RTW and with commercial patterns.  It will take me a long time to work out how to make things fit, but every garment shows an improvement.

Okay, I established with the first muslin that I needed to take out quite a bit from the back:

I decided to make a new muslin and removed a section from the upper back of the bodice.  Here is the alteration on the pattern:

I also had to remove the same amount from the back armhole:


I also removed an amount from the back skirt section:


As the shoulders were also too wide, I removed a section from both front and back bodice armhole scyes:


I also took in the side seams at the hip.

And have now gone from this (muslin #1):


To this (muslin #2):
The shoulders are a better width and the hips a little slimmer.  I do have a little tummy, so the fullness is needed across the tum.

The back view of muslin #1:



And  on the second muslin:

Much better - still looks a little big over the back, but then I do need room to move:

And I need all the room I have in the back.

Lets check the side view - this was the original muslin:



And this is the side view of the second muslin:


A vast improvement - front hangs better, and the back looks a lot better. 

Now it's time to cut out the fashion fabric...

Sarah Liz






30 comments:

  1. I am amazed to see how much of an improvement the second muslin was..Great job .. Look forward to seeing the dress done.. Happy sewing..

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  2. You have convinced me to spend more time with fitting. #2 looks SO much better!

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  3. Agree #2 looks so much better and looking forward to seeing the final version.

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  4. You inspire me to make muslins! That fit is so much better

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    1. It is. Muslins can be tedious, but if it is for something that you really want to look good, very worthwhile :)

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  5. the hard work has paid off, look forward to seeing the finished item

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  6. The idea to make change on a "toile" is like the work of professional.It is the base to built what you want after.Nice.

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    1. Yes, toiles (or muslins as the united States sewers call them) are essential if you want to make sure of fit and style.

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  7. Two muslins, that's dedication. I have to admit I usually do required adjustments in my fashion fabric!
    It's looking beautiful :)

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    1. Thank you :). I would avoid the muslin process if I could get away with it Carolyn, but if I am not sure how a garment will work, I usually do a muslin.

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  8. #2 is so much better. You've done a great job!

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  9. Nice work! I always learn something from your posts!Do you work from traced pattern pieces or the original?

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    1. Thank you Laura. I always trace my patterns - that way, if I make a mistake in size, I still have the original.

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  10. #2 is a great improvement! You are so dedicated to fitting. I love it!

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    1. Thank you - I don't always enjoy making muslins but they are worth it :)

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  11. This is so great. Thank you for sharing your process. I often have the same problem with the back of my garments and for the longest time thought that I was cutting out the wrong size. Is this what's considered a sway back adjustment? I'm thinking this is what I need to learn to do.

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    1. A sway back is more around and below the waist. My problems are higher up - I have a narrow, flat, erect back. The fabric pools in the middle and looks like a sway back, but it originates from higher up. I recommend a little book for you - Fast Fitting, by Sandra Betzina. She has gorgeous little sketches that really demonstrate fitting problems nicely, then she tells you the solution.

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  12. Your effort on the second muslin definitely paid off ~ can't wait to see you nail your 'real' one ... J

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  13. I am so appreciative of those who take the time to photo and share their pattern adjustments. This helps in immense ways. Thank you!

    Your adjustments made for the perfect fit. I look forward to seeing the finished garment.

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  14. Thank you L - I plan to do more show and tell about how I do things next year:) Thank you for expressing your appreciation.

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  15. wow - that is looking much better! you are really learning some fitting skills...

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