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Saturday, June 21, 2014

My new tablecloth trousers - aka a wearable muslin.

This is my test version of the trousers from the pattern  Burda 6985.  I liked the suit, and planned to make it in a piece of fabric I do not want to ruin.  So I decided a test garment was needed to check the look and style of these pants.

I was worried that the pants were a bit short for the look I wanted, and that they may have been too narrow at the hemline for the  look I want.
 

The line drawing indicates that the pants are quite generous through the hip, although they look less so on the model - but then, there is probably a large bulldog clip "fitting" the pants at the back.  That's what happens in photoshoots.  Don't believe the great fit you see, it's usually obtained by all sorts of tricks of the styling trade.

This was the fabric I had in mind:


I would hate to ruin this fabric by poor choice of style, so I proceeded cautiously.  First I made a muslin to check fit.  I cut size 8 hips, crotch and legs, merging into size 12 at the waist. I also added just over 1 cm to the front rise and just under 1 cm for the back rise:

The hips are still too big and curvy:


 And the back looks okay, except I do have a high hip  on one side:


I'm not going to worry about the high hip, that is being worked on by my physio and my co-operation with exercises.

These are the alterations needed - maybe a bit more at the waist, and take in the hips:

This is the new straighter hip line:


And the new muslin - looking better through the hip area :


 The back looks fairly good for me, I usually have a lot more problems than this:

The next step was to trial the whole style line and see what else needs altering. I decided that instead of a full length sheeting muslin I would use something out of my stash that I don't really want.  I had a 1 metre piece of 160 wide cotton table cloth damask - why, I do not know.  I decided that might make a pair of interesting pants. I just got them out, although I had to remove about two inches from the length - which on my height is about what I would take out of the pattern anyway.  And cut crosswise for the side fronts and waistband. It's quite a thick fabric, and was not easy to sew:


And here is the result ( I added a slightly wider waistband to balance the chunky look of the damask):



I did make the waist a little larger than necessary - I was not sure how much extra I would need to accommodate the bulk of the fabric in the waistband and the seams.  I overcompensated,  so I had to run some elastic in the back:


Now, there is still quite a bit of wrinkling under the bottom, and down the legs.  Partly this will be due to the extra width in the back and the elastic waist, and partly I suspect the fabric - there is no drape factor at all.  This is the sort of tablecloth fabric you would starch (if you lived in that sort of olde worlde environment, that is, and like starching tablecloths.  Not for me!!).  If you remember, the muslin did not wrinkle much at all.

These pants do have great big deep pockets -


 The pattern did not suggest bar tacks, but I put them in - the pockets were going to catch on things otherwise.  I also did my usual topstitching everywhere:


Now the frieze of pictures - I look a bit careworn, I took these last night after work:



Verdict - l a great pair of fun trousers that I shall enjoy wearing casually on cooler summer days next summer. I have a few casual shirts that needed something to go with them, and I think these fit the bill.  The elastic in the back will make them very easy and comfortable to wear.  I may have to shorten one leg - the pants want to settle lower on one side, due to my hip issue.  I'll see what happens as I wear them.

But, do I want to make these up in the smart fabric.  No, they are not quite the right style for the fabric I had in mind.  I still like the concept of this suit, but the jackets need to go with a smarter pair of pants.

So, I have not wasted my time - a great pair of pants from stash I did not like.  And I did not ruin my good fabric!

Sarah Liz

38 comments:

  1. They look great. A really nice shape on you.

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  2. Fantastic pants.. The fit looks really good.. So nice to have a wearable muslin.. Happy sewing.

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  3. The fabric actually makes the pants look quite dressy. Great job!

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  4. These pants look really nice and stylish, and I'm sure you will get a lot of summer wear from them. I like seeing how you alter the pattern, as I need to do much the same with my hip/waist area. Gets worse with age :(

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    1. Thank you - and yes, age has a way of doing away with the waistline:)

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  5. Very nice pants! I like the ankle length look!

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  6. clever using a tablecloth. These turned out adorable and stylish.

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  7. Trousers look great I like the length and the subtle print adds interest. What a good use for tablecloth fabric. It's always an added bonus when a muslin is wearable

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    1. Thank you Tracy - I agree, a wearable muslin is a win :)

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  8. These will be brilliant for early next summer ~ the length is just ideal ... J

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  9. They look great! I like the length...and your pretty sandals look good with them too!

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  10. White is so on trend.....the pants look great!

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  11. I really like the look of these. A great length for you.

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  12. Great job Sarah.... I, too, often have to trim the hip area. They always seem to be too full. Vita

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    1. Thank you - yes, most pants seem to be made for curvier hips and thighs :)

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  13. They really look dressy and beautiful.

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  14. I think bright tops combined with white pants are quintessentially summer. That was a brilliant idea to use the tablecloth damask into some pants which look fabulous btw .

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    1. Thank you :) - I agree, a nice bright top will make these - also the good old navy.

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  15. The pants look great. I love the title for this post too. Oh, and I have this pattern so I am happy to read that, despite some tweaking, it is a good one.

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    1. Thank you - and good luck with your version :)

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  16. Excellent perseverance with this project. A good example for me.

    Cheers,

    Lyric
    http://www.facebook.com/sewcroquilt

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  17. Sara Liz I admire your persistence in making the trousers... I stopped for a while even though I see I need one.

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  18. Wow, your pant looks amazing, I'm really happy you shared "The line drawing indicates that the pants are quite generous through the hip" I didn't realize that when I brought the pattern.... I mean the pattern was 50 cents and I couldn't pass that deal......I'm actually going to try jacket (b)... but your share on PR was very helpful....

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