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Saturday, July 19, 2014

Test Garment, Marcy Tilton Jacket V8982.



Here it is - my first version of Marcy Tilton's unlined jacket - Vogue pattern 8982.  I say first, because I love this little jacket and there will be more...

This is the one of the variations of the jacket shown on the pattern envelope,  for those of you unfamiliar with this pattern:

And the line drawings:

As you can see from the picture on the model, this jacket is extremely wide over the shoulders. While the jacket looks fitted, when I read the measurements on the pattern pieces, I knew it was not this fitted - size 8 had a finished bust of 39.5 inches.    Now, if I make a size 12 jacket, that usually finishes around 39 inches, which gives quite a few inches ease for wearing garments underneath.  So, I decided that size 8 would probably be about the right size for a loose jacket.  I wanted a combination of View B jacket  and View D sleeves

First I made a quick muslin to check the size:


I decided that this was about right - it is a loose, unlined jacket, after all.  The shoulders fell off me, so I removed half an inch.  I had already removed two inches from the sleeve length prior to cutting this muslin - the hem allowance is still on - that is one inch.  I decided the garment looked good at this length, so I added a hem allowance in addition to the one on the pattern.

Then I made the jacket up out of a poly-viscose fabric I have had in the stash for 20 years or more.  I'm not sure where it came from, because I don't like it, and doubt I ever did.  I think I inherited it from somewhere.  Anyway, I thought this would be a great use of the fabric to further test this pattern.  Sometimes it is a good idea to fully test how the garment in made before investing in a "good" version.

The pattern was easy enough to make up.  I did find it strange that the front band facing was not interfaced, as I thought it would flop around without interfacing - and how can you make satisfactory buttonholes without interfacing behind them?  So I fused an interfacing onto the front facings for the bands and front.

Without more ado, here are the pictures, front, back and nearly sideways:

Looking like a little toy soldier here!

Given this is unfitted, the back fits quite well!

Again, given this is unfitted, quite a nice fit.
Overall, I am very happy with this jacket, and plan to make it again.  The shoulders are still a little large, and I will move them in a bit more on another version.  Luckily, I have some wool in my stash that is about the same weight as the fabric in this jacket which would look lovely made up. 

I also think this would look lovely as a blouse - in fact, I think I will make another and move those shoulders in a bit before making the wool jacket.  That way it can be a second test garment before the good one.

One or two more shots, just for fun:

I love these little flared corners!

And the overall hang of this little jacket.
I'm glad I made this jacket as my July challenge "sew your wish" for the Make a Garment a Month Challenge.  It is a long time since I have made a jacket of any sort, and I have always wanted a little Marcy Tilton garment.

Bye for now,

Sarah Liz

P.S.  I've also made a pledge to cost all my garments.  So here goes

Pattern - I usually buy Vogue at half price, occasionally less.  So I will allow AU $15.00.  Fabric was from stash, if I had to replace say AU $12.00 per metre - I used 1.75.  Thread was purchased, AU $2.99.  Plus serger thread, allow AU $1.00.  Interfacing, I use a good interfacing - say AU $2.50.  And buttons from stash, to replace, AU $2.99.  Plus needle and calico allowance, $2.00, and tracing paper/pen allowance $1.00

TOTAL:  $48.48 - which is not bad for a very wearable designer jacket.

61 comments:

  1. This looks really good on you Sarah Liz. A wise decision to size down to a size 8! I know this is supposed to be a looser fitting jacket, but the huge amounts of ease in some patterns drive me mad! Of course, it does make you feel good being able to sew a smaller size ;-)

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  2. Beautiful, Sarah Liz. It looks really, really lovely on you, and a great fit. I can imagine you might make it a couple more times.

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    1. Thank you Patricia - yes, this is a more than one make garment :)

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  3. Love it. Love it. Love it.
    Good colour and your fitting worked so well.

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    1. Thank you :) - makes a change from my usual black :)

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  4. That's so lovely. And I think you're right it would make a great blouse.

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  5. I like that, a lot. Very cute & so wearable.

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  6. This is a wonderful jacket on you, and love your whole outfit here. It works :-) Thank you for the fitting info as those shoulders are very wide and I am very narrow there.

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    1. Thank you Mary - yes, this look is very "me".

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    2. p.s - yes, do check those shoulders ...

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  7. I like it! I have this pattern and need to get to it. Thanks for the info on the sizing.

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  8. I love that pattern and think you got a great fit.

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  9. Fantastic the way the jacket turned out! Thank you for the great review, I have the same pattern.

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    1. Thank you - and good luck when you make your pattern up :)

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  10. Now I want this pattern!! :)

    Very nice jacket. It fits you very well too!

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    1. Of course you do... :)

      And thank you :)

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  11. Very pretty -- have the pattern but haven't made it yet. It looks very good on you.

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  12. Lovely. A good plan to make more as it suits you well. I like the idea of a blouse from the pattern too.

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  13. Very nice jacket with a great fit.

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  14. Wowo - love it have admired and pondered over this pattern form quite a while now ... I hold you responsible for any purchases that may occur relating to this LOL :)

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  15. Cool - i've admired and ponder over this pattern for some time... I now hold you responsible for any purchases relating to this :) x

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    1. Thank you - and good luck if you make this, but do muslin first to check it fits and suits you :)

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  16. Love it.. The fit is great..Look forward to seeing it made in the wool too.
    Happy sewing, and best wishes on your studies.

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    1. Thank you Judy, for both thoughts :)

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  17. Great little jacket ~ a wool one will be just scrumptious ... J

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  18. I really like how this turned out. Interesting about the sizing. I find Marci Tilton's patterns run large on me and it appears true for this jacket. It is really a nice jacket and looks good on you!

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    1. Thank you Linda - yes, she does seem to go for the bigger cuts.

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  19. Excellent jacket!

    Did you know that Vogue/Butterick/McCalls are on sale online at the moment. $5.99 or less for EVERY pattern. Oh be still my beating heart!

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    1. Thank you - and I get into enough trouble with our Aussie sales without online o/s sales too :)

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  20. A great looking jacket and will be interested to see it worn as a top.

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  21. I am delighted that you sewed this jacket! It is so pretty, you made a beautiful garment, very designer-looking. I bought this pattern when it came out and have been waiting for better health to return so I can get to it! I so enjoyed this post, thanks!

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    1. Thank you Coco- and I do hope you get better soon, and back to sewing - and hopefully this :)

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  22. Gorgeous jacket looks lovely on you I can see why you want to sew more versions

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  23. Lovely jacket and those little flared corners are so cute :)

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  24. I love that this jacket isn't stuffy and formal but interesting and stylish . It looks like you could wear it for both smart and casual occasions.

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    1. That's what I thought too, Janine, thank you :)

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  25. It is a great jacket and looks fabulous with the white pants. Looks like it would cover all occasions.

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  26. Love this jacket!!! It looks great on you and I so enjoyed reading about all your steps and thoughts.

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  27. You did a great job in assessing the correct size for you. I'm taking a second look at this pattern now!

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    1. Thank you Roz - and I suggest a muslin first to check the fit :)

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  28. What a cute jacket! Very figure flattering.

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  29. Shops are going to wonder why there's a run on this pattern! A agree with you that it would make a great blouse!

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  30. This jacket looks really flattering on you. Great job! It looks great with those white pants too.

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