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Sunday, January 11, 2015

The Trousers I needed yesterday :)




My first idea was that I would make black linen pants. Then I decided to refine some of my pants making techniques first before I start making pants in  more expensive materials. So I made the above pants in cotton broadcloth, originally purchased from Spotlight and virtuously shopped from my stash.

I was going to make this pattern:
 Burda Pants 6889

This is sized for Miss Petite, and I wondered if this sizing would fit me better than ordinary trousers/pants as I am an on the  cusp petite.  I made a muslin and loved the leg line, but the torso was uncomfortable in the rear crotch area.

As I needed  the pants  yesterday, so to speak,  I decided to revisit Burda 6985, and put the above pattern on the back-burner for now.  I'll revisit in a few week's time.

Burda 6985.





I managed to get these to fit me a tiny bit better than my earlier versions (which you can find  here
and here.  )  (looking at these posts again makes realise my sewing is slowly improving).

These were a standard make with the Burda stayed front.  One problem I always have with making pants is how to finish off neatly.  For ordinary wear pants I overlock (serge)  - and going around concave (hollow) curves, the overlocking sometimes does not look neat and does not hug the fabric edge - it hangs off the edge by about 1/3.  Which means it will pull and snag very easily and perhaps not do a good job of  stopping fraying.  There is no problem on the straight edges. 

I also find that getting the crotch curve neatly overlocked after sewing and trimming close to the second seam similarly challenging.  So I decided to use a thin nylon lace to bind these problem areas, and give a nice looking finish.

It's hard to show this in pictures when working with black, but here goes:


I made the pants full length and not 7/8ths length as in the pattern.  Otherwise, I think I have got these to look quite like the pattern:


Now, that is the last photo of me in a camisole top on this post - not a good look, and modesty will prevail while I show you more views :). I just wanted to give you a view of the completed garment to show you what it looks like.



Front view

Front view - pocket

Side view

Back view.


 This was also my Make a Garment a Month chosen garment.  Our theme was new - new pattern, new technique, a new sewing beginning,  or just try something new.  As my new pattern choice was not going to work, I tried a new technique with the lace binding.  And of course, I have a new pair of pants that I really needed for summer wear.

If you want to join the Make a Garment a Month Group on Facebook, email stylishsarah251@gmail.com.

That's my first garment for 2015 complete.  The Trousers I needed Yesterday can be worn Tomorrow :) .




Next week I think I will tackle a top - one technique I avoid is using bias binding as a neck edging or anywhere else for that matter.

Wishing you all, wherever you are, a happy and healthy week,

Sarah Liz.







41 comments:

  1. The trousers look a beautiful fit, Sarah Liz, and I like the idea of using the broadcloth as a muslin. I haven't made a good fitting pair of trousers for a long time; you are inspiring me to make the leap this year and have another go.

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    1. Thank you Patricia - yes, do make a cheap wearable muslin to get your confidence up.

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  2. Awesome! These are beautiful trousers.

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  3. Good looking trousers...you are fast!

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    1. Thank you - I had some time last week so decided to get these done.

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  4. oh, and I like your haircut :-)

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  5. Very nice! And they should be quite comfy in linen.

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    1. Thank you - on next summer's list now - I'm wrapping up this season soon and starting Autumn.

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  6. Those look great & are so flattering on you! And I love your new haircut.

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    1. Thank you x2, and I'm lucky - I can wear pants nicely with my up and down figure.

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  7. I've just noticed you've cut your hair lol! looks good ! the pants look great too! I need to challenge myself to make other than elastic pants lol!

    Helen

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    1. Thank you Helen - these pants do take more time than elastic waist, start with ordinary pants with no pockets.

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  8. New pattern and new improvement -- your pants are look good. I have a Jocole Skinny Pattern pant with a yoga waistband that I have been meaning to try. I hit a pin with my overlocker so she's in the shop for repair and I don't want to start anything major if I cannot finish it nicely. When does the term start for you?

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    1. Thank you. I'm sorry to hear about you pin mishap - does not impress an overlocker. I always pin well to the side if I need to pin with overlocking, and then re-adjust the edge with my hands. I use pins that can be used with knits. I start back late February.

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  9. Pants look great Sarahliz.. You have gotten your fitting problems down. These look really nice on you.. How wonderful you got to shop from your stash.
    I really like that white blouse you have on..Did you make it..

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    1. Thank you Judy - yes, I'm starting to understand my shape now for fitting. No, I did not make this top - this is an old RTW one. I want to copy it one day.

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  10. Great Pants and they fit you so well. Great job

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  11. Great fit - your pants are a lovely staple. Very nice.

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    1. Thank you BeaJay - staples are what we need most in our wardrobes.

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  12. Your pants look pretty good from here and great idea to use the lace on that seam.

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    1. Thank you Sharon - I wore them today and they worked nicely.

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  13. You have done it very fast, Sarah Liz. I am impressed! Your trousers turned out great. Happy sewing.

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    1. Yes, Hana, I had some time off last week so I decided to get on with sewing these - plus I know how to make trousers so they are now quite simple.

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  14. Good looking pants, Sarah Liz. Overlocking curves can be tricky, the lace was a neat idea.

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    1. Thank you Kathy - yes, inside curves are tricky - one can't sometimes pull the fabric straight enough to please the overlocker.

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  15. Great fitting pants. I am sure these will be worn often.

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  16. I like the way you finished these and these pants look GREAT on you! You've definitely tweaked the fit and everything about them look great!

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  17. The trousers look great very nice.

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  18. These are great on you. What a fabulous fit. Very you! :)x

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    1. Thank you Dawn - yes pants and I suit each other.

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  19. Your new haircut looks great! and what a great pair of trousers too, the fit looks stylish, slightly slouchy and very chic. I like your top in the first picture too, very pretty.

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    1. Thank you - and they are comfy to wear as well :)

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  20. These are lovely trousers Sarah Liz! I have made some Burda pants and had success with them as well.

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    1. Thank you Margo - I generally like Burda patterns :)

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  21. I love those on you...you did a wonderful job!
    I have avoided making pants as I am not happy with my belly shape (or lack their of..aherm). I lost a lot of weight, and have a hernia that needs repair and desperately need a tummy tuck due to light-skinned-chick-non-shrink-back-itis. :p
    My favorite pair of rtw pants are a pair where the leg has a front seam and a fabric with a fair amount of Lycra in the blend. I _need_ to reproduce those as they have about finished their wearable life and I haven't been able to find them in the store any longer. :insert sad face here: They are my go-to pants for shooting weddings and on-site portraits (I am a photographer) and I need to have several pair in my rotation. Heck I would love to have them in several colors they are SO comfortable and the Lycra smooths ma belleh smoosh in!
    Your wonderful job has inspired me to get to work on recreating these pants. First, to find a pattern similar to what I have that I am so enamored of, then a suitable knit for a muslin. Must do this up right!

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    1. Thank you Kathie . I'm sorry to hear about your tummy situation - I think we all have parts of our bodies we do not like.

      I think the best thing is to work with what you currently have - and wear a long shirt over the offending areas. Copying a favourite pair of pants is a good idea, although you will probably have a few trial runs before you get them right.

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