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Friday, January 23, 2015

A Summery, Drapey Top - Simplicity 1316.





A few weeks ago we had a very hot day, unusual for the humid, semi-tropical climate that is the norm in Newcastle.  It was 39 degrees F, with a hot westerly wind blowing.  Now, this is the sort of heat I am used to, as I  have lived in Alice Springs.  You need the right sort of clothes, and I am a bit light on those sort of clothes.  So I decided to fill the wardrobe gap.

I found a rayon at Spotlight which was not the best quality but I thought  would do for this job.  It is years since I have worked with rayon and it is not a fabric I like- it frays, it wrinkles, it's a weak sort of fibre.  BUT - it is cool to wear.

I  used simplicity 1316:

 Line Drawing
I thought  size 10 would be about right, and  I chose  the square neck version.  I made muslin first to c check the look and fit. I had shortened the bodice 1 inch along the L/S line.  The pattern has variations for B,C and D cup sizes - I used B.


I used a fairly stiff piece of old sheet so it is a bit of a stiff looking top.    I think the bodice has been shortened too much giving a dumpy appearance. 

I thought the neckline was about right, but this was unfinished, so I added a 3/8 inch (1 cm)  seam allowance.  I also rounded the square neckline as this is much easier to sew than a square one.  my result looks like the picture on the envelope so I suspect that the sample maker knows this trick.  This slight change in shape  also then lends to curved edges on the outer edge of the facing, making them  much easier to overlock.  I shortened the bodice by half and inch (just over 1 cm).


It  was a straightforward sewing process -princess seams, faced neck turn under twice and sew hems.  and no sleeves to set in.


 I did have one mishap. I noticed a small flaw after I had finished the facing.  I am not sure if this was in the fabric to start with, or whether the rayon disliked the feeddog.  I suspect the latter.

Well, every sewer has to know how to get out of these sorts of troubles, so i dabbed on a bit of fray check and then appliqued a little guipure daisy over the top of it.  Then I  added one the other side and at the bottom of the opening to balance the look.

So  now i have two daisy embellished backs of tops :) . The one before this had daises too.

Here is the picture frieze, front,side and back






The drapey fabric much such a difference to the look of this top, doesn't it.   I'm going  to stash some more rayon, as this was easier to sew than I remember.  I do think it needs a very simple pattern with very few seam lines, as rayon is awful to iron and shows every seam, even when you do all the things you are supposed to do to avoid seam show through.

But I don't mind for my first rayon top - at least I have something to wear on a very hot day.

I do like this little pattern and see lots more tops in the future.

Sarah Liz :)

42 comments:

  1. I love it!!

    I agree that rayon has beautiful drape, but is best left to simple silhouettes.

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  2. Perfect top for those hot days and even at Lake Macquarie last Saturday on the lake it was still very hot which was quite unusual.

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    1. Thank you Sharon - I agree, Lake Mac is usually quite pleasant.

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  3. A lovely top Sarah Liz, in style, colour and fabric. I like rayon in the hot weather, but never seem able to find it at our local Spotlight. I've been looking ages for some in black to make cool summer pants. I like that pattern too.

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    1. Thank you Patricia - sorry to hear you are having trouble finding what you want.

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  4. Gorgeous colour, lovely top for your hot weather

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  5. Perfect for the weather you have,Sarah.The rich color bloc metches with your skin and remind the Kate M.'s dresses.
    We are waiting for spring here,but ...

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    1. Thank you Jacqueline. It is a Kate M colour and look, you are right.

      Time to perhaps start your spring sewing ?

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  6. I haven't tried rayon as yet. Sounds quite difficult. Is it the case that rayon and viscose are one and the same? I do see viscose but not rayon. I've looked, too, for lining as lots of people seem to use that, but haven't come across it. I love the colour of your top, you suit it well and it reminds me of summer...

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    1. Thank you Anne - I'll reply to the rest in a post.

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  7. Love everything about it! Looks great on you!

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  8. Beautiful top and fabric! I love rayon as well, they are perfect in hot day. You look so lovely in this top :)

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  9. Like you, I flee when I see rayon. This is a beautiful color and such a lovely pattern. Enjoy your nice weather.

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    1. Hello DDD - you are back on the air, nice to see you again.

      Thank you :)

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  10. I love your top. I have just purchased this pattern from sewingpatterns.com and waiting for it so I am really happy to see this reveiw. Sad to hear Rayon is such a pain to work with. I just purchased 5 metres of lovely 100% Rayon from The Remnant Warehouse at the ridiculous price (for Australia) of $3.95m. I am hoping it is not as painful to sew and iron as yours. I am even picturing it in that pattern now that I have seen yours.

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    1. Thank you BeaJay - I will write a post about rayon to answer some of your concerns.

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  11. What a lovely top and colour choice. And looks suitably cool for your hot weather :)x

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  12. You are great and creative at finding a good fix for mishaps! I missed this pattern. Very nice.

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  13. Love your new top.. The rayon did fantastic with this pattern.. and I love the blue on you..looks so pretty..

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  14. Lovely top in my favourite colour blue. Great pattern too, I like the variety of necklines.

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    1. Thank you Kathy - I think you would enjoy sewing this top.

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  15. It looks lovely the fabric hangs beautfully

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  16. What a beautiful colour! Terrific top too.

    Is rayon a fabric that responds well to a glycerine wash?

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    1. Thank you - I'll write more about rayon etc on the next post :)

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  17. Lovely top that will look good with trousers or a skirt. I agree that rayon is much easier to sew than I first thought! I find that the drape of rayon lends itself to a variety of projects. Unfortunately, my local fabric shop doesn't carry very much rayon so I splurge when I head to a big city.

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    1. Yes, this should be versatile. I tend to splurge as well when I come across rayon, or any other fabric that is normally hard to find :)

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  18. I love this top it looks fabulous on you. The colour is amazing. It will be fabulous in this hot humid weather.

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    1. Thank you - it certainly is a hot, humid weather top.

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  19. This top looks so gorgeous on you - the drape, the fit, the fabric, the colour. It looks very versatile and you can probably wear everything in your wardrobe with this.

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    1. Thank you - yes, I think it will also work for all sorts of occasions :)

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