It's my goal to find a style of pant that suits me. I need to make a pair of formal pants and I also need some casual corduroy pants to go with some nice hand knit jumpers.
I have made lots of casual pants over the last year or so, but they are still not quite right. They look okay-ish and no worse than RTW but there is just an uncomfortable feeling around the crotch. I have this problem with RTW as well, and all in all, my me-mades are more wearable.
Also, many trousers now have the waistband slightly below the waist. While a slightly below waist band may work on curvier shapes as they have bigger bottoms to hold the pant up, this principle does not work so well if you have a tummy that is quite large compared to the hips.
I am also very slim in the leg, so most pants are just baggy and unflattering on me. I did think I might try Burda 7017:
This looked like an okay sort of pant for a relaxed corduroy pant. The waist was high, which I like, and the legs slim. I was worried that they might be a bit baggy around the hips for me, so I made a muslin:
Do you see how wrinkled these are? This pattern is cut for a curvy or pear shaped bottom and fuller thighs. Taking in the sides will just make the wrinkles worse. A great chunk needs to be folded out higher up, quite a few diagonal folds have to be made, and it is likely that I won't get anything I like afterwards. And it will take hours.
And in any case, the side view is totally offputting:
I mean, I think I could fit a nappy on under these. Nappy pants are not really a very flattering look.
So, I have decided that this pattern is not worth making up for me. It might work in a soft fabric, but really, I don't want soft, floppy, relaxed, nappy pants. Now, or ever. I wanted nice corduroy pants that were comfortable to wear. So I have put the pattern to one side for taking to the Op Shop.
I then decided that maybe I would shelve the corduroy pants project and make the smarter pants that I have been avoiding for nearly two years.
I liked the look of Vogue 9032, view C, the slim leg pant:
Now, I had some misgivings about this, as the waistband is contoured and designed to sit just below the waist. I have a very high rise, and also a little pot belly. These two features do not work well with this sort of pant, but I had to try to find out for myself that this pattern will not work in the current form.
I'm not too worried about the gap at the front, as I cut these out as size 12 at the waist/tummy area and size 8 hips. I had forgotten that Vogue is smaller in the waist than Burda -and I had forgotten to add the smidge more that I usually add at the front.
The back looked like this:
I also had the feeling I had was that these were going to fall down. I felt I needed a firm waistband, or a high waisted version of this pant.
And as for the side view:
I really do need darts to fit my tummy curve, I have decided.
So I am going to pass on this pant for now. I might revisit and mix that princess back with a different and more flattering front - with appropriate alterations to the crotch area.
But first I need to discover what these alterations are. So I decided to find a plain, simple pant with darts, that was as straightly tapered in the leg as possible to suit my straight leg shape. This pattern looks like it will make an ideal pants sloper to gauge shape and possible alterations needed.
I had McCalls 6711 in my pattern stash:
This looks like it will work nicely for what I want. Front and back darts, and it even has pockets. The trousers are faced with a back zip. I want a waistband and a front zip, but these are simple changes.
Here is my muslin:
I cut size 14 waist and high hip and then size 8 through the hip and leg. Inner leg is size 8. Given that this is an old sheet, I think the pants look quite good. Better than the first two patterns I showed you.
The side view is much more flatttering:
I lifted the front rise slightly, and the back rise as well. I do have a slanted waistline, and that is fine with me. I also have a small centre back, and I need pants to fit in here or they slide down. So the rise is quite high at the back.
But it doesn't look high when viewed from the back:
And I have noticed that models, who have very slim, fine, limbs also tend to have trousers that look like this down the back leg. I just don't have a thigh girth to help fill the fabric out. But if you start taking in, you just get even more distortions. So I think this is a pant that works for me pretty much as is.
I did have to add to the back crotch quite a bit. I'll assess whether that is enough in the test garment. The crotch now feels comfortable.
I'm going to make it up in a better fabric now as a test garment. I hope to post that next week...
And if it is a success, this will be my smart pant and my corduroy pants pattern as well as a basic sloper pattern to work with.
Fingers crossed X...
And, a note on trouser style - it really is important to know your body shape and what styles suit it. And if you are not sure if a trouser style suits you, make a quick muslin. If the style does not work for you, if you do not feel good in it, if it is not comfortable or flattering, and you know you won't wear it, move on. I know patterns can be expensive, but it is more expensive to make something up that you do not like and will not wear.