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Sunday, March 22, 2015

Butterick 5926 Jacket - The Fleecy Version


It's done - I have finally made the planned fleece jacket.  It was a little hard going as I have not sewn sweatshirt fleece before (tracksuit fleece) and I did not know it's little ways.  Plus I came down with the most awful head cold.  That's why I have cut my face out of the picture - I have a red nose, and then underneath that, a large cold sore that erupted.  Normally I am quite relaxed about photos, but even I have limits!.

Anyway, back to the jacket.  The pattern is Butterick 5926, designed for knit fabrics:

 




I made the test version immediately prior to this one and have blogged about the process and any pattern alterations here, if you are interested in finding out about this.

I made this version out of polycotton sweatshirt (tracksuit) fleece, purchased from Spotlight.

I cut just a smidge more on the jacket side and sleeve seams as I thought the turn of cloth may take up a bit of room.  I did not want a tight jacket as I may wear it over cardigans and sweaters.

The fabric  seemed to have about the same amount of stretch as the fabric in my test version, but did in fact have just a bit more give.  I also found it very bouncy to sew.  I was a little worried about how the collar would sit, but with top stitching all the layers were forced into place quite well:


(Hmm, I didn't hang the jacket on the coat hanger straight!  In fact, things do line up properly.  I always check lapel lengths and collar lengths and turns each step of the way, so that there are no hidden surprises like a the front edges being vastly different lengths).

I also stitched the top edge of the pocket down.  The pattern just has this folded over, which worked with last weeks version, but was not going to stay put in fleece.  I stabilised the edge with a strip of interfacing first:



The hem cause me some grief - I overlocked it and then stitched it in place, but it was terribly stretched and distorted.  Out with the stitch unpicker...

I undid it and resorted to cheating.  Yes, Sarah Liz used a product.  I find this almost tantamount to taking an easy shortcut, given that I have had to learn how to do things without such things and believe that to be the hallmark of good sewing!

I used a lightweight fusible something that is quite cobwebby and sticks edges together.   It still seems to have a bit of give, but the fabric is stable when it is sewn.  I am not sure what the equivalent is overseas (I'm in Australia) but this is what I used:


And the finished hem lies flat:


I also used a bit of stretch lace on the edge, just to make things look a little nicer along the hem edge.

My overlocker seems to balk at thick layers, and it did not want to co-operate with overlocking the sleeve/armscye edges, so I bound them with lace, so that they looked finished:

And button, again, the button and snap trick:


(On the jacket that was not lined up properly on the hanger and so looks uneven at the hem.  Not so in real life when adjusted correctly).

(That's the sort of inattention to detail that happens when recovering from a head cold!).

I did find that the jacket stretched a little across the back/neck, so the shoulders are just a little over the edge of my shoulders.  Next time I will work out a way to stabilise the neck in this jacket - which is unfaced at the back. Maybe I'll cut the undercollar on the non stretchy direction.  I'll figure out a way...

But as my DH says, this is an unstructured jacket, and just what I want for a smart casual throw on thing that can take some punishment.

Okay, pictures now - I've taken care to not quite show my face in most of these, due to the huge red thing that is not very photogenic :).  I'm probably exaggerating, but you probably all know how I feel...







 And, finally just to show you that the jacket does line up - I'm standing at a slight angle in this headless shot:


So that's it for this week.  I'm not sure what next weeks sewing plans are - I got a bit behind with study this week due to the under the weather effect, so I will have to catch up.  I'll see what happens.

For now, all the best to you all, wherever you are in the world.

Sarah Liz


33 comments:

  1. You did a great job! Your jacket turned out perfectly and I love the detail. Lightweight fusible is a great way to deal with stubborn hem, I did that too.
    All the best on your study and take care.. :)

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    1. Thank you Hana - yes, I think I will be using more fusibles in knit hems :)

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  2. It looks good. I sympathise with your cold; I'm recovering from a nasty chest cold. I agree it can slow thought processes - I lengthened a cardigan front and forgot to lengthen the front bands and I used up all the fabric I had. Still, I don't see why we shouldn't use products, notions if they can be helpful! Maybe, though, like using a calculator we need to know how to do it the original way in case the battery fails!

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  3. Nice work. Now you have two smart casual jackets to throw on. I like your use of lace to finish seams and hems. Hope your cold clears up soon.

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    1. Thank you Kathy - yes, these will be in very regular use. And wash and wear as well :)

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  4. Eh a little shortcut here and there is ok :)

    Very nice jacket. The attention to detail really shows! And it fits you very nicely!

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    1. Thank you - although I am having a chuckle about the juxtaposition of shortcuts and paying attention to detail!

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  5. that came out fantastic! I'm saving your review, because I will need to make one of these by summers end...

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    1. Thank you - and remember, my review is for my shape and my findings. Do look at the pattern carefully and assess for your needs - and a fitting calico is a good idea, if you have any old bits of knit lying around.

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  6. Nice jacket, and I'll bet it feels like loungewear. Nothing wrong with using some products, especially when sewing difficult trackwear fabric.

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    1. Thank you Mary - and I shall use more of this sort of stuff in the future - as you say, some knits are quite unruly, so a taming solution is not such a bad idea :)

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  7. Love your jacket.. great job.. Fit is good.. Know you will get lots of use from this one.Happy sewing.

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    1. Thank you Judy - yes, this will be one wearable jacket (and the test version as well).

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  8. Love your jacket! it is a perfect, comfy, casual jacket and may I ssy, looks quite flattering on you! Hop you are feeling better.

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    1. Thank you Lisa - and re your compliment, jackets are one of my things - I have the straight shoulder line that they need to hang from.

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  9. wow a great outcome - would not have thought about using this fabric for a jacket - will now though :)

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    1. thank you - and neither would I,except it was one of the recommended fabrics, and I thought it would be so cosy to use :)

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  10. Looks so good Sarah Liz and I love you little cheat for the hem. Fleece/trackwear is so comfy -- perfect for the cooler weather.

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    1. Thank you Annie - yes, it is comfy, but often looks sloppy - this has just the right smart but comfy look and feel.

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  11. Oh you poor thing, hopefully you are feeling a lot better.

    Your jacket looks fantastic and you have done an excellent job on taming the fleece with the topstitching.

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    1. Thank you Sharon - and yes, I am recovering nicely, thank you.

      Re taming - that's exactly why I did the topstitching - there was no way that things would have sat where they should without it.

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  12. Well done indeed, Sarah Liz. It looks so easy and comfortable, and will wash well too. I used to make track suits with this fabric, but I would be daunted by the prospect of doing a jacket. You will wear this one a lot.

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    1. Thank you Patricia - yes, this will be a go to favourite. If you are thinking about making a jacket, this is a simple one to start with - limited pieces, no lining, not much to fit.

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  13. A very nice and useful jacket that looks like a million dollars on you Sarahliz.

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  14. Lovely jacket - as always - a beautiful sew.

    I haven't tried the seam/hemming tape stuff before. Good to hear it works.

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    1. Thank you - and yes, it works but on some of the lighter knits does tend to make things a bit stiffer. Alright on firmer knits.

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  15. I am wondering if the stuff you used is what we call Wonder tape? I use it to stop knits stretching and when the garment is washed it disolves. Lovely jacket Sarah Liz, very smart and elegant x

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    1. Thank you Dawn - I'm not sure that it is quite the same, but similar - it doesn't say anything about dissolving, but the tape itself seems to melt into the garment. It does add a bit of body - okay on heavier knits, would not work on floppy viscose.

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  16. Hope you are better now. Great jacket and love your top stitching. No shame in using products..... That is what they are there for.

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  17. Very nice! It looks like it's going to be lovely and cosy come winter :)

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  18. I know exactly how you feel! This looks like such a great jacket for winter.

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