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Saturday, April 11, 2015

Vogue 8793. A Trial Run T-Shirt.


Somehow this week I managed to put together this little t-shirt top thing-ey.  I had a piece of very, very, very stretchy knit that I was not sure what to do with. And I wanted to see what this top made up like. I like it and think it can have many uses.  But first I wanted to trial it before getting to excited about it :)

The pattern I used is Vogue8793, a Katherine Tilton design.

As you can see, it is quite loose around the middle in the top photographs.  When I looked at the pattern shapes this was confirmed. I cut size S,  but reduced the tummy area by 3 cms on both  front and back pieces, especially as I was using a very stretch knit.  I also did not want zips in the collars, or a double collar, so I settled on just the main collar, which is cut on grain.  This means it doesn't stretch much, so stabilizing the rather large neck hole. I also decided to use a piece of leftover stable knit as one of the layers of the collar as the knit I was using was very stretchy in both directions and therefor not stabilize the neckline.

And when I say the knit was stretch, I  mean stretchy:

Across the stretch (width) un-stretched

Across the stretch (width)  stretched

Down the length, the grain, un-stretched

Down the length, the grain, stretched.

This was nice to sew but I knew it would be dreadful to hem.  Which it was.  I sampled a variety of hems - plain with no fusible interfacing.  Another tape which just distorted the hem too much.  In the end I settled for a glue type - iron on, peel off the paper, fold fabric over type. Supposedly light weight and suitable for chiffon.   Called Heat'n Bond, Lite - I got it from Spotlight.

I don't think I would use it with chiffon - it added a lot of weight and thickness to the hem of my garment:

And it ripples.  I think with ironing the tape on, some of the rib was flattened.  Anyway, I decided to live with the end result.



The cuffs of the sleeves were made in the stable knit - I trialed the main fabric, but it just did not co-operate and stretched all through the seam - it was more distorted and rippled than the hem!

The neckline I like:

Here you can see the two layers - the contrast inner layer was the stable knit.  I also top-stitched the seam line around the neck.  The layers show anyway, so I thought I would make a feature of them.   I also made a slight mess of the overlocking at the back of the neck, so I covered that with a lace strip.

Now for the main frieze of photos, the usual front, side and back:

I'm coming to terms with the rippled hem, sort of peplum-ey.

Just as well hi-low hems are in!

Small back wrinkles.

I have not yet altered knits for my shape.  I need to lengthen the front and shorten the back above the waist.  I have only recently seen this alteration described in an old McCall's sewing book I saw in a second hand shop.  It was the alteration for the ideal figure, which I have never considered I have! 

I also wouldn't have attempted alterations and a good fit with this knit.

But look at the picture of the model again:

Loose around the hip line.  Rises up at the front and if you look at the bottom right picture, longer at the back and she is trying to make it look fitted.  Look at her hand placement.

So I have decided to do a model pose:

There, looking better already.  I should have put my hands around my middle and then the t-shirt would look perfect!

Wishing you all the best,

Sarah Liz

P.S.  I am at Residential School this week (flying out later this morning!) so I may not be able to answer your comments or comment so easily on your blogs.






26 comments:

  1. Great top - love the neck detail. Good luck at Residential School.

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  2. Not bad at all! I really like the neckline detail, and I think you got a good fit here. Shame about the hem, but it's not that bad. Overall I think you got a great top out of it!

    Also, you look very sassy in that last photo. :D

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    1. Thanks Heather - I agree, the band is not too bad - it's just not what was originally wanted. It looks better now the garment has been washed.

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  3. I like the neckline and think your top looks pretty good. 😊 hems can be so difficult as what works with one knit won't work with another.

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    1. Thank you Jolanda - I agree with you about knit hems :)

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  4. Pretty top! I love the neckline and the high low hem look really cute :) Have a lovely weekend, Sarah liz :)

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    1. Thank you Hana - I agree, the things that are not right do make the top cute :)

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  5. I like your new top! I like the neckline feature and the fabric looks like it's a very comfortable wear. Also like how you used a stable knit along with the fashion fabric knit. Great idea! Thank you for sharing your hemming thoughts too. That's where I have the most problem with knits. So many have great success with double-needle stitching.... but that does not work for me very often. Am actually thrilled when it does! :) I will keep the fusible in mind for next time. Good luck at school!

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    1. Thank you Lisa - I think that people have difficulty with twin needle stitching because the tension has to be just right. I just soldier on with the basics :)

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  6. Hope you enjoy residential school. I don't have much experience with knits but had some problems hemming my most recent make. Thanks for the tips. I like the neckline in your top. I have this pattern so might consider making it.

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    1. Thank you Anne. If your most recent make was the McCall's cardigan, it looked fine in the end.

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  7. Safe travels Sarah Liz! Yes, that is some pretty stretchy knit, but your shirt turned out well.

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  8. I love it! And I'd be glad for the ropey overlocking on the neck edge because it made you add the lace which has given it a real professional finish :) x

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    1. Thank you Dawn - I'm glad too, and may use this finish in future just because it looks good:)

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    1. Great top Sarah, love seeing different versions- i did this a while back and had similar issues with the hem - so i whacked on a hip band that sorted it :)

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    2. Thank you - yes, I have resorted to the hip band solution sometimes as well. It wasn't going to work with this top :)

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  10. Knit patterns make up very differently depending upon the knit used. This is a great first version of the pattern-I love it on you. The neckline detail is feminine and flirty, while giving some warmth for your coming cooler weather. Nice top.

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    1. Thank you Mary- I think this is actually a great pattern to work variations with later :)

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  11. Love your top.. The style is great on you..
    Hope you have a wonderful week at school.. And safe flight home.

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    1. Thank you Judy - and I have arrived safely home :)

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  12. I love the neckline. It is very interesting. Your version looks stylish. I hope you are wrapping a good week up at school. I am counting down until my semester ends and a little more sewing can begin!

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    1. Thank you Annie - the neckline is a great feature. Residential school is over, now the next lot of assignments ...I'm counting down too :)

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  13. Thanks for the tips on making this tee. I have the pattern & some very nice knit from Marcy Tilton , but I'll make a wearable (?) Muslim first.
    With as busy as you are I really appreciate your MAGAM group . Thx

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