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Saturday, May 2, 2015

Another Little Top - Vogue 8793.


I had some time to sew today - and as I was keen to get on, I decided to make another version of Vogue 8793, as I already knew this pattern would work.  My first version can be found here.

(And it looks as though I was keener to sew than to do my hair properly today, judging by how it looks in the photo).

This is the pattern:

It's a Katherine Tilton design.  I'm not an arty sort of dresser so would not make these patterned variations, unless, of course, I was using up scraps of fabric - in that situation, rather than throw fabric out, I would make an arty sort of top.

But today I was not using scraps, but part of a 2.5 metre piece of rib knit I found at a local Op Shop, for $5.00.  I'm not sure what the composition is - something synthetic, and I think polyester.  The burn test indicated a polyester-ery  behaviour when alight.  Sort of just melted.  It does feel nice though, and was easy to sew.

I did not want the double collar so just used the inner, larger, collar to make a more classic roll collar.

I cut size Small which works in a stretchier sort of knit.  I took in 1 1/8 inch (2.5 cms approx) at the hip and merged this to nothing at the waist.  As you can see, the top is very loose on the model.

  I shortened the top 1 inch ( 2 cm) at the L/S line of the bodice.  I did not add a cuff to the sleeve.

Here is a photo of the neckline - I top stitch the neck edge where collar meets bodice to hold the over-locked seams into position.  I also had to overlock with grey thread as I could not find an over-locking thread to match the fabric colour - this was a little hard for me, as I don't like un-matching thread.  I got over it though, and quite like the grey now - although, with non-matching thread you do have to be neat. As this is a knit, I use a slight zig-zag stitch, so that I will get some stretch in the seam.


I also do a false flat fell seam at the shoulder.  I have of course stabilised the shoulder seam.   I also do a little edge stitch on the outer edge of the sleeve on this top, just because I thought it went with the sporty look of this top.  Again, top stitching done with a slight zig-zag stitch.


 I'm still trying to work out the best way to do hems on knits, so once again used a fusible web on this hem.  I stitched in a single row of stitching, again, with a slight zig-zag stitch.  I  did the same hem technique on the sleeves.


The front view shows that the front is still quite loose - just like the picture on the pattern.  It would have been voluminous on me if I had not taken it in.   The hem still ripples a bit, but I think this is also happening because the top is loose.  I would not want it any tighter.  I am coming to terms with hem ripples - they can even look purposeful, if you decide to perceive them that way.


The side view - again, the back has folds.  This is because I have a narrow and erect back and need to take out in umpteen places at shoulder level, back and sleeves.  For a tee shirt this is just too much work - no-one will notice in real life, and I will probably wear a cardigan over the top in any case.


And the back view - again, a few wrinkles from my narrow back.   I mean, one day I might work on this alteration, but not until I have a few nice knit tops in the chest of drawers.


And as I said earlier, no-one will notice in real life, because you are busy moving around and not standing still for a very unforgiving blogging sewers self timed photo shoot.


So with that cheery thought, I will say goodbye for now.  Have a great weekend wherever you are.

Sarah Liz :)

P.S. To my Queensland readers - I'm sorry to hear you are having the sort of bad weather we had last week.  Hope you are all okay.  S. L.



31 comments:

  1. Lovely colour blue, Sarah Liz. It's one of my colours, too. I wouldn't worry about a few minor wrinkles. People who don't sew would never notice them and blog followers are too kind to mention them. We are our own worst critics, of course. Hope the bad weather doesn't drift back down your way.

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    1. Thank you Kathy - yes, this colour would suit you too. Aren't we just our own worse critics - but then, this trait also helps us to try and improve :)

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  2. Love this! I have the same top cut out but haven't started sewing yet. I really like the way you did the collar - the pattern instructions for the collar made my head spin so I was just going to bind it so I think I will do what you did! Thanks for posting! Martha-Ann

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    1. Thank you - if you just take it slowly with the collar, step by step, you should be fine. And the zips just confuse things - I wouldn't bother with them :)

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  3. Such a pretty color! The way you did the collar looks great.

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  4. Oh I love your way of thinking!!! 'Purposeful rippling hems'! Yes! I shall remember that and change my attitude as that is one of my biggest gripe about sewing knits! Your top is cute and such a pretty color on you. I like all the topstitching details you put into it. Thank you for sharing those with us, it certainly gives me ideas of how to handle knits too. Love wearing knits, but they can be so onerous to make.

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    1. Thank you Lisa - yes, attitude can be all sometimes. It's funny, one is led to believe knits are quick and easy, but I don't find this so at all.

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  5. Your top is lovely. Collar flawless. Looks very cozy. I think it's almost impossible to avoid ripples when sewing across a rib knit. This fabric might be too heavy but have you ever done a faux band? It is easy and sporty looking and you would not have a single ripple. You can do it on any straight hem. Add an extra 3" or so, fold up hem,then from the inside
    with all layers to the left of the machine, sew through all layers (3), using
    the serger. Then when you un fold it from the right side it looks like you have a band which you may choose to top stitch over. The serged seam offers a more stable place to top stitch. It works great on wovens as well. The hem can be as deep as you want it. This trick changed my life, one of my sewing instructor friend taught me this. Sorry if this is too much info. But I thought I would suggest it. Alternatively you could cut a separate band if you wanted but it's not necessary if know to do it a head of time.
    What a great fabric buy! Gotta love the op shops!

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    1. Thank you Maureen - it is cozy, and I can sew well sometimes - except for these knit hems, so thank you for your very well written instructions. This will work on some of my problem knits :)

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  6. I love the fabric. And you are right no one will notice the slight flaws (and they are very slight!).

    Are things returning to normal since the cyclone?

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    1. Thank you Annie - and there are just as many flaws in RTW, so I try to be kind to myself about my me made flaws.

      Things are back to normal, except of course we are sitting and waiting for the insurance assessor to come, with a tarpaulin covering the holes - waiting for the next storm to blow it off :)

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  7. That's a really nice top Sarah!

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  8. Very nice top! I really like that fabric!

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    1. Thank you - some of the older fabrics have a quality not around nowadays.

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  9. Very pretty top! I like the style of the collar.

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  10. I love it! Pretty top and fabric :)

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  11. Lovely shade of blue! Top looks good on you. I have that narrow back thing in my upper back and when you get to the hips, I need to add. Strange fitting adjustments required.

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    1. Thank you Linda - the narrow back is a pain to fit, isn't it, and like you, I carry weight on my high hip/tummy.

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  12. I am with you on matching thread for topstitching. What I've learned is that many neutral colors blend very well, so matching perfectly isn't always necessary.

    I never noticed the neckline on the Tilton top; interesting and unique.

    I hope to get back to reading blogs regularly; I've missed out on quite a few of your latest garments!

    Finally, why wear a sweater over this top, unless you're cold? =) I think it's fine without it!

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    1. I'll take this tip about using blending neutral overlocking threads - something else to stash :).

      I like this neckline - it is smart, classic but as you say, unusual. And, I would only wear a cardigan over this top, not a full sweater - I would not want to hide it, but I do feel the cold, so a cardi is essential for me. Give me hot weather anyday.

      Just pick up blogs in the here and now - you have been busy, that happens, just let people know and that will be fine. Busy and no time for reading/commenting on blogs happens to all of us.

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  13. What a beautiful blue! And I would much rather sew than do my hair also. Sewing is easier to manage! I like how you did your hem. I use wonder tape or a bias interfacing then twin needle. Works "most" times but I am about to invest in a walking foot. I use knits a lot so think it will be a good investment. Oh and I wouldnt wear a sweater over that top either... why would you unless you're expecting acrtic conditions haha ;) xx

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    1. Thank you Dawn - I'm having a chuckle about your hair comment. I have found someone here who sells wondertape, so I am going to buy some and try it. See my reply to L about the cold :).

      Good luck with your walking foot. I've got a teflon foot, maybe I should try that next...

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  14. A great top. Love the colour.

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  15. Gorgeous color and it looks great on you!

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  16. Really nice top..Love that color on you.. HAPPY SEWING.

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