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Saturday, May 30, 2015

Sandra Betzina Knit Top with Darts - Vogue 1363.



This week I made a simple T-shirt out of a plain cotton knit.  The pattern I used was Vogue 1363, a T-shirt designed by Sandra Betzina.  This  T-shirt has bust darts, and I though I would like to try making a darted T-shirt to see if it looked or felt better than an ordinary T.  The neckline is a nice shape, the shoulders are narrow, and the armholes cut quite high - according to Ms. Betzina.  I agree, I did not need to alter the neck or the shoulders, and the armholes feel good.


This is my wearable muslin - I had a scrap of cheap cotton knit lying around and there was just enough for this.  The knit was something called Colorado cotton knit, from Spotlight.  I got some of the end of this run of fabric for about $4 or $5 per metre, instead of $14.99.

 Anyway, without further ado : the pattern-

Vogue-Sewing-Pattern-1363-Sandra-Betzina-Pullover-Tops-Size-32-55-Uncut 

I made version B, the plain top shown on the left of the pattern envelope. I cut size B bust and size A (smaller) from waist to hips.  I shortened the sleeve and bodice pieces 1 inch along the L/S line. I also added a seam down the back - it's supposed to be cut on the fold, but I needed a seam in order to get the top out of the material I had.

 I thought the dart looked generous, but not having made a knit T before was not sure of how it would place, sit or look, so I just made as per pattern.  The neckline was faced - a very nice finish.  I did find that the T was going to be a bit snug - the knit I used was quite firm, so instead of seaming at 5/8 inch, as per the pattern, I used my serger, effectively making the seams about 3/8 inch. This gave me the ease I wanted, although I thought the sleeves were still a bit snug on the upper arm - and my upper arms are hardly large.  Probably the low stretch in the knit was affecting the fit.  They are not too snug though.

I also turned under the facing edge - the pattern says to stitch down and then trim back.  I don't like the raw edge look so I did it my way :)

The pattern has a huge amount left on for the hem, and you are supposed to trim away what you don't want.  I removed 1 1/4 inch - and had already shortened 1 inch at the L/S line of course.

The darts were a little too long I discovered later - next time I will stop them about 1/2 to 3/4 inch back.

A few pictures - this one of the neck facing:

  
I also like to do a top stitch along the shoulder - I do a false felled seam - one layer flipped to the back of the shoulder over the trimmed seam. I stabilise the seam first with some interfacing (not seen when finished):

I even top -stitched the darts down - they looked fairly obvious, in a not attractive way, so I decided to make a feature of them.  I also have placed a pin to show where I will need to stop the dart in the future - and that point is now transferred to my pattern, or I would forget :)

And the hems:

As I do not have a cover-stitch machine, I have to make do with zig-zag stitch - I just use a narrow zig-zag (for the stretch factor) and do two rows, so it sort of looks cover-stitched.  I overlock the edge beforehand of course.  So it all looks okay, and stretches enough as well.

On me, this is what the top looks like:




It certainly is a nice little T-shirt and I see more of these being made in the future.  I can also see more clearly were I need to alter the back of my garments - I need to take out the bit that overhangs my mid back at waist level.  I won't be fiddling with making perfectly fitted tees for a while though - I am in urgent need of a few, and that takes priority over fitting the things at the moment.  And they are only T-shirts, after all, not haute couture.

On that note I will leave you - Vogue 1363 - it is a nice  pattern.  And yes, finally, a pink top - it's lovely to have something bright in the wardrobe :)


Wishing you all the best, wherever you are,

Sarah Liz

41 comments:

  1. Pretty colour, good fit and beautifully finished off. This is a lovely T-Shirt.

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  2. Great colour on you. We need to see more pink on Sarah Liz. I too have a Sandra bertzina t shirt pattern, mine is 3/4 sleeves with darts so your review is helpful. Like the topstitching detail.

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    1. Thank you - it seemed funny putting darts in a t-shirt :)

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  3. This color and style looks really good on you Sarah Liz. I enjoy making tees, and other utilitarian clothing, in order to see how precise I can get with technique. No coverstitch machine here either.

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    1. Thank you Mary - and sometimes I enjoy the process, more often not - I prefer practicing technique on wovens :)

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  4. Great colour on you. We need to see more pink on Sarah Liz. I too have a Sandra bertzina t shirt pattern, mine is 3/4 sleeves with darts so your review is helpful. Like the topstitching detail.

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    1. Thank you Louise - I have replied above :)

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  5. Beautifully made! I agree about the neck facing, good idea turning it under - it is always lovely when the garment looks as neat and perfect on the inside as it does on the outside :) The pink is gorgeous too x

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    1. Thank you Natalie - I love nice insides - it sort of makes you feel happy and nice all day that you have taken care with making the garment :)

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  6. I have to agree with you this a very nice fitting top. Will have to check out this pattern for myself.

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    1. Thank you - yes, this is a nice top, so watch out for a Vogue sale :)

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  7. A very nice top there SarahLiz. Loving the pink on you. Very nicely made.

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  8. Beautiful top, love the color on you.. And so happy you have a pattern, that didn't require lots of fitting issues.
    Happy sewing, and pray school is going well.

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    1. Thank you Judy - it's going to become a well used pattern I think :)

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  9. Love the bright pink, Sarah. It looks really well made, and the colour and silhouette suit you.

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  10. Excellent colour for a super top!

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  11. Pretty in pink! I really like this on you Sarah Liz and it is beautifully made. I love your idea of the double stitched zig zag hem. Looks fabulous! x

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    1. Thank you Dawn - I knew you would like the pink and so do I :)

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  12. It'a s great colour and looks like a great top. I love the double zig zag too. Genius.

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  13. A very nice top. I love the colour it really suits you.

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  14. You have made a beautifully sewn tee shirt, Sarah Liz, and I was really interested in the way you do the hems. The two rows line up so perfectly - you have a very good eye! Also I'm full of admiration of the neatly finished facing too. Congratulations also on the beautiful dressing gown in your previous post - love it too!

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    1. Thank you Patricia - I also line up the second row of stitching using one edge of my presser foot. Still not easy, and then you have to keep things even with the edge of the bottom of the hem too :)

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  15. I really like the way you handle knits and have made a note of your tips and tricks here! :) Neckline.... sleeve hem... overall fit at waist.... I think the top looks great on you.... not to mention the pink suits your complexion beautifully! What a nice, not boring, basic top you've made.

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    1. Thank you Lisa - and I also think this pattern would work for you and the style you are developing :)

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  16. Pretty top and color! You look great in pink :) Love to read the detail of your project, especially the bust dart. I always remove the darts when working on t-shirt. I will try your trick one day.. :)

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    1. Hello Hana - yes, normally I would not use a dart in a t-shirt, but I thought it would be nice to try this idea. I think for a very large lady, a dart would be wonderful. Glad you liked the details, over time I hope to include more details about sewing in my blog.

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  17. Gorgeous colour for winter and a great looking t-shirt.

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  18. Someone said "pretty in pink." I agree! This is a great addition to the wardrobe and the fit is good as well. I passed on this pattern at first; need to give it a second look.

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    1. Yes, it's the sort of pattern that makes you say, but I've got t-shirt patterns. It's a nice little top - you would have to do a FBA. Watch out for it when Vogue patterns has a sale :)

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  19. Pink is wonderful on you. I am glad you found a nice t-shirt pattern because knit tops are handy to have as they can be dressed up or dressed down. It was interesting to hear all the sewing details!

    Hope you are having a good week!

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    1. Thank you Annie - I hope you are well too:). Yes, I need a bit more pink in the wardrobe, I think :). I think this top is going to end up being a classic TNT for me - much like your Simplicity dress.

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  20. You look nice in pink. I say go for the bright colors! You did a nice review of this pattern.

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