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Friday, June 19, 2015

The Two T Challenge - No. 1, Vogue 8536.


 I had two metres of black combed cotton jersey in my stash, already washed.  Now most knits are 150 cm wide, and I  can easily make two t-shirts or tops from 2 metres.  This knit though is only 112 wide, with large selvedges - each is about 10 cm wide.  This amount is not really enough for two t- shirts without a bit of juggling. (For my U.S friends, I have about 2.1 yards of 45 inch knit, and lose about 2 inches width in the selvedge).

I purchased the knit from Spotlight - while I do not like Spotlight, occasionally they do have nice fabrics.  This retails for about $13.99 per metre. but I think I bought it in a sale. 

For the first t-shirt I chose Vogue  8536. 


As you can see from the line drawing, it has little gathers or easing at the bust.  I have never had this sort of ease in a t-shirt before and wanted to try it.  In my photos, I am wearing one of my padded bras that I hate, because I don't like the round shape - I'm not round in the bust, so it just looks daft, and as I have a short torso, I really don't need to add to it.  Still, it's comfy, and I wear it in winter around the house.  One day I am going to learn to make bras so I can get something I like.  But not now, I'm digressing....

Okay, so I made a long sleeve, round neck version.  I chose size 12 - that was about the same size as my Kwik Sew T Shirt, which is a bit firm in the same knit. The Vogue pattern had 5/8 inch seams, the Kwik Sew 1/4 seams, so I thought if I seamed the Vogue pattern at 3/8 inch the size would be about right. 

The first thing I did was to cut off some of the hem - this is a deep hem, and has side splits.  I wanted an ordinary hem, and also wanted to get two tops out of my fabric.   I also removed an inch from the sleeves along the L/S lines.  I also put in a seam down the CB as I wanted to save as much knit for top 2 as possible.

I did cut the neckband out of a piece of black poly-cotton ribbing I had in my stash.  Many people say that ribbed neckbands should be a certain ratio smaller than the neck - but I decided to just go with the pattern and see what happens.  Sometimes I find otherwise the ribbed band can pull up a bit tight. 

The sleeves are eased and set in like a conventional sleeve.  I did this, although next time I think I will ease the sleeves and then set in flat.  I am still not sure if the shoulders are just a weeny bit large on me, but overall I am pleased with this t-shirt.  It's a nice shape, even over my ugly but comfortable winter house bra :).

The hem is slightly curved, which I find more flattering than the cut straight across hems found in some patterns.  After all, we are slightly curved, certainly around the tummy area.

Now some details, first the neckband: 


 The shoulders - I always stabilize these inside with a scrap of interfacing, and then do a welt seam and top stitch it going towards the back.  It's my t-shirt signature thing:


The gathers at the side of the front seam at bust height really bothered me at first, but then I realised I was making a fuss over nothing.  The wearing shape is really nice, and you don't see this gathering as the arm hides it:


And my hems and top stitching along the CB seam - again this was a welt seam, all  hem edges overlocked and then I use a slightly zig zagged stitch and go around twice so it looks twin needled. A bit dark, but you will get the idea:


And now views of moi:

Front

Side

Back.
 Black is just the worst photo for blog photos, but this gives you the idea of this top.  It's a really nice top - a t-shirt but a little smarter and with a nice skimming shape and  fit.  The neckline is also nice, and the rib worked well without being made smaller than the neckline.   I think this will become a TNT top for me.

 That's it for this week - next week I hope to show you the second top :)

Have a happy and healthy weekend, wherever you are...

Sarah Liz



33 comments:

  1. Hi Sarah Liz! This t-shirt turned out wonderful and the fit spot on. I am going to have to start using your "t-shirt signature", I have not thought of this, great tip!

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    1. Thank you Diane - and please do use any idea of mine - next time I make a knit top in a lighter colour, I will show you what I do :)

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  2. Nice basic, classic tee. Yes, it has a great shape and fit on you. One of my newlook patterns has the gathers at the bustline, and it's become my favorite all-time t-shirt pattern too. Looked so odd the first time I made it.... but wears beautifully, just like you found with your Vogue one here. You've definitely figured out how to manage.... work with.... knit well. I like your stabilizing tip too. Have a good day! :)

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    1. Thank you Lisa- I didn't know New Look had a t-shirt with gathers as well. It's amazing how we soon get used to a difference - that is all it is - and you could never find this sort of fit thing in a RTW t-shirt as it takes longer to sew.

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  3. Sounds like a good challenge to try to fit two T-shirts out of two metres of fabric. You should totally start making your own bras - it's so addictive, and you'll never look back!

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    1. It is a challenge, but I will find a way. I'm gathering my supplies for making bras - it's a whole new world of sewing to learn :)

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  4. They look great Jersey is not a fabric I work with enough. That's a good basic pattern you have there.

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    1. Thank you Louise - I have been learning to sew jersey this year :)

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  5. Beautiful! I love making a simple T-shirt because I will wear it and it is a breeze to make. I love how you commented that a curved hemline is much more flattering than a straight -- I never thought of it the way you described but it is a perfect explanation.

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    1. Thank you - yes, there is something to be said for making a garment you actually wear :). I like thinking things like shape through with regard to sewing :)

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  6. Great looking and fitting t! Excellent work as usual.

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  7. This a fantastic fit. Nice tip on the shoulders. I am going to look up this pattern

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    1. Thank you Vani. This pattern also has good reviews on Pattern Review.

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  8. Nice job Sarah. I like stabilizing my knit shoulder seams also.

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    1. Thank you Faye - essential to stabilize, I think.

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  9. What a beautifully fitted top, Sarah. You can never have too many black tees, imo. I wish you lived closer - I'd be begging you for lessons in your excellent stretch sewing. You really have a lot of skill here.

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    1. Thank you Patricia - I wish a few of us lived closer together - it would actually be nice to share our sewing and show and tells over a cuppa :)

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  10. A nice top! This is a good pattern to have and make it your TNT. There are a lot of options with this pattern.

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    1. Thank you Linda - I love having a few trusted basics in the pattern box to use when I need something quickly.

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  11. Great looking top and the fit looks spot on.

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  12. I can see why that would become a TNT for you the fit is perfect!

    Helen

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  13. Great TNT. I'd like to join you and Patricia for a cuppa!

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  14. Great TNT. I'd like to join you and Patricia for a cuppa!

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  15. I love your detailing on this... especially your "Shoulder signature". Never seen gathers at the bustline before either; it's a nice touch. Agree on the colour for photographing but your close ups show how lovely it is x

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  16. That's a lovely top! Nice details :)

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  17. This top is so flattering on you. Aren`t we all so lucky to be able to make custom made clothes for our body that are way better fit than the RTW store stuff!

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  18. Hi SarahLiz. I really like your shoulder finish on a Tshirt and intend to copy it from now on!! Your shirt looks great on you.

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  19. Hi SarahLiz. I really like your shoulder finish on a Tshirt and intend to copy it from now on!! Your shirt looks great on you.

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