Pages

Sunday, November 29, 2015

The Big White Shirt - Burda 6908.



 I am back from my much needed mini-blog break.  I really needed it - for some reason I was really tired - as you can see from the photos in this post.  I'm starting to pick up energy again - I guess with life demands, energy for blogging will wax and wane from time to time.

Anyway, on to more important things than my energy levels for blogging - sewing :).


 *****

I have had a yen to make a big, boyfriend style shirt for a long time.  I don't know why, but I don't think there has to be a why.  So, as I need to brush up on my shirt making technique, I decided to make Burda 6908:




Of course, one big advantage of this style of shirt is that there is no fitting needed.  It is big,baggy, ,unfitted and a shapeless straight up and down shape.  It also has slightly dropped shirt shoulders.

 I checked the measurements and decided to make size 8, which had a finished bust measurement of 42 inches, which I thought was more than enough - in fact, that is 8 inches larger than my bust.  As it turned out, it was the size was just right for my neck size.

As this shirt was really for the purpose of practicing technique, I decided to use a piece of white calico.   For house/garden garments, I am quite happy to wear calico - I save linen for out of the house garments.  And I would not refresh myself on how to do a collar stand and collar band on a piece of expensive linen.  And lets face it, practice costs time, resources and fabric, and I like something to wear at the end of the process.

And I also choose to use a cheap fabric when I have never used a pattern before or do not intend to make a muslin.  I would hate to make a pattern that I found I didn't like and use a piece of treasured and possibly much more expensive fabric.

I chose shirt A, and did not alter the pattern except for the sleeve length. As this is a hot weather shirt, shortened the sleeves to around my elbow - I do want some coverage.  And I inverted the back pleat, as I prefer that look.

And then I made it up.  A simple and straightforward process, and I could even remember how to do the collar and collar stand.

First of all, I will show you a close up of some of the shirt details:

The inverted pleat - I also topstitched the back yoke seam.
The shirt front, with pockets.
The collar and collar band
The hem.
Now, bear in mind this is a bit of cheap, cotton, calico, so I think that the results in a fairly rustic fabric are quite good.

Before I go further, I must also tell you that I set myself a challenge with the buttonholes.  For years I have done my buttonholes on a basic machine using operator skill.  It took ages, by the time I measured and practiced and then finally made them, with a lot of skill and concentration.  I used to have a sore neck for a few days afterwards.  I was grumbling to my husband about this, and told him that there were machines available that did this automatically, and he said that he would like to get one for me.  It took me a while to accept this offer, and of course I made sure I waited for a sale.  And this is the little electronic machine that was such a thoughtful gift:


After much procrastination, and perhaps even some trepidation, I finally decided to make buttonholes with this machine.  And bingo, lots of lovely buttonholes.  MAGIC.  I did have trouble with the collar stand buttonhole, as I anticipated - there is a lot more thickness there, and I thought the foot would not tolerate this area.  However, it did much of the buttonhole, and I just went over the missed area with my big machine, on a small, narrow zig-zag.  It's good to know, right from the start of using this machine, how to fix a mishap.  And it happened on a practice, calico shirt :).

Okay, back to the pictures of the shirt:

Front view - big and baggy and shapeless, just as the pattern is!





Well, this is just like the pattern - a real, man-style shirt.  I do think size 8 is quite big enough for me though.


I can also see why the models on the pattern envelope are all carefully positioned to make the shirt look a little more stylish.

And I can do that too:



Will I make this again?  I probably will, one day, but in a nice lightweight fabric.  I would also give it just a little bit of shaping through the side seams.

But for now, I have got this shirt out of my system..

I'll be back next weekend with another one of my makes:


But for now, goodbye to all my lovely followers, and have a happy and healthy week, wherever you are.

Sarah Liz

31 comments:

  1. Impeccable sewing skills Sarah Liz. You should have used the linen.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you - next time I will, or a nice voile.

      Delete
  2. I'm impressed by the sewing and the finishing. It looks great. Next time, the linen. I'm glad you're enjoying your new machine. I'm also glad that you're beginning to feel better, less tired. Looking forward to seeing next week what you made.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Anne, and thank you for your well wishes.

      Delete
  3. I'm impressed by the sewing and the finishing. It looks great. Next time, the linen. I'm glad you're enjoying your new machine. I'm also glad that you're beginning to feel better, less tired. Looking forward to seeing next week what you made.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Congratulations on your new machine! Did you try to fold some extra fabric close to the stand to keep the foot horizontal? I often find it's not the thickness causing trouble, but the slightly disturbed angle of the buttonhole foot. Nice shirt, and sharp looking collar!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for the suggestion. I also sometimes have trouble with buttonholes. I'll have to try this.

      Delete
    2. Thanks Marianne, and I love your suggestion - the same technique for sewing the start of thick seams. Never thought to use it for a buttonhole.

      Delete
  5. It's a great shirt. That doesn't even look like calico it looks much better. Your collar looks terrific too. Great new machine. I used to avoid buttonholes until I got my automatic button hole machine. It's a dream. Also agree with Marianne about the angle of the foot. You can lock the foot in place with the little black button at the back (I didn't know this until I saw it on a blog a few months ago) but I used a little block of plastic to hold the foot level and it really helps start those thick seams.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you. I agree, automatic buttonholes are SO much easier. Thanks for adding to Marianne's suggestion.

      Delete
  6. Congratulations on the new machine! Stress-free buttonholes are the best. =) Your shirt looks cool and casual. Well done!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. thanks you L - yes, it is a great, casual, workhorse shirt. Hardly high fashion but good for jobs like cleaning the bath - we still want to look okay :)

      Delete
  7. The test shirt is beautiful! And congratulations on your new sewing machine. I have a Janome as well, love the automatic button-holer.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you - and I'm pleased to hear that you like your Janome .

      Delete
  8. Love your " big white shirt"/ Very well made.
    Looks so comfortable...
    Congrats on your new Janome... I have a Janone [second one] and I love it.. Runs very good.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Judy - good to hear that people like their Janome machines.

      Delete
  9. What a lovely classic white shirt. You knocked it out of the park well done1

    ReplyDelete
  10. I LOVE it! I love the oversized fit and WOAH is that some expert stitching!? So nice!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you - and between you and me, I love topstitching :)

      Delete
  11. Beautiful....I love the big shirt too

    ReplyDelete
  12. Awesome job on the boyfriend shirt. The details are superbly done.

    Your husband is doing well - a cover stitch machine, and now a buttonhole machine. Dude!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you - and yes, he is a good sort.

      Delete
  13. I love this shirt!! Fantastic job on all the little details. It will be such fun to wear. Isn't it nice to have a machine that takes the stress out of buttonholes. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Lisa - and yes, I am thrilled now to be able to easily do buttonholes :)

      Delete
  14. Your shirt looks so comfy and works well for all you want to do.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Good to catch up with you rmakes Sarah Liz. What a great classy basic this shirt is. Im sure you will get plenty of wear out of it. Oh.. and Happy New Machine! :) x

    ReplyDelete
  16. Lovely shirt and for sure you will wear :) White is a lovely colour and so easy to match with. Enjoy your new machine! :) :)

    ReplyDelete