Pages

Saturday, January 9, 2016

2016 Garment #1and #2 along with an Altogether Torrid and Tedious Week



2016 has certainly got itself off to a tedious start with problems on multiple fronts.  Amazing, I have managed to sew inbetween events of  this week.  

The first event was that our drains blocked up on New Years Eve.  The emergency plumbers arrived and we got the drains partially running, with the situation to be looked at in the New Year - there seemed to be a blockage further down the line, but no-one could find the boundary trap to the main sewer.  Apparently this part of Newcastle is notorious for lack of records, and also people just tend to bury the sewer area.  A vent was found, but the pipe there did not seem to affect the drainage situation at all.  Over the next few days of digging, we established that it was better to lay a new drain and redo a proper connection to the sewer.  The old plans were well and truly outdated, and I gather from DH, who owned the house before I came onto the scene, that no-one had ever managed to find the sewer connection to the main sewer.  This of course astounded me, being the neat Adelaide girl that I am - everything is neat and orderly in Adelaide and you can locate boundary traps just by pacing - from memory about 1 metre out from the house and then the trap is the other side of the boundary.  Not so here.  I even found out that the house behind me has the main sewer line underneath it.  I think I am more astounded by that than I am about the cost of our problem. Which is not inconsiderable, by the time the garden is dug up, concrete cut, drains laid and a new connection established.  I will believe we have success when we finally do.  In the meantime, life is a bit tedious with limited use of water and lots of use of buckets being emptied in the garden.  I hand wash what we need. So really, I am camping at home


At the beginning of the week, I knew little of the story outlined above that was unfolding. What I did know was that it was very wet. managed to have over 3 days of solid downpours - and I mean, downpours - with flooding on most roads.  Areas nearby were flooded and evacuated.

I planned to go to work on Monday but decided it was far too wet - I know what happens now, and roads can be cut.  So I stayed home and decided to sew my first garment for 2016, a pair of black rayon pants, totally in blissful ignorance of the extent of the drain problem.



Now, don't the trousers look great?  The RTW shirt looks awful - I didn't realise it was such a poor fit until I saw this photo.  Still, it proves what I often say - my worst fitting me-mades are a better fit than RTW garments on me.  

I used a Simplicity pattern :



Misses' Separates

 These are simple elastic waist trousers. I have never made a pair of Simplicity pants before so was curious about how they would fit me.

I used size 10 in the Simplicity pant- the pattern claimed the finished hip measurements were 37 inches.  I thought this was about right for my 33/1/2 inch hips. The  pants were straight leg/slightly bootcut so I knew they would be flattering with nothing to fit on my slim legs.

I usually do a muslin, but after studying the pattern  pieces, decided to use the crotch to waist part of Vogue 9067 , a pant I recently made that fits me nicely in the crotch and through the rise to the waist.   In effect, this redrew the crotch curve two inches below the original crotch and added extra to the waist and for a wider casing. I used 1 inch elastic instead of the 1/2 inch specified in the pattern.   Effectively, by lowering the crotch I raised the hip line 2 inches - which works perfectly as I am petite and my hip line is 7 inches from the waist, not 9 inches which is what the pattern companies use as the hip line.

I also shortened the pants by about 1/1/4 inches over and above the alteration outlined above.  The pants were quite long, but are designed to be worn with heels.  I wanted mine to be quite a bit shorter to wear with flat sandals - and in our wet climate, I prefer slightly shorter in summer.

And, I added in seam side pockets.

And the results are perfect:


Hip curve in the right place for once


Flattering from the side


And look at the back:)
Looks like I have found another pant that works. And the best part is that the fit feels as good as it looks. I have not used many Simplicity patterns but have found that when I do I am also happy with the fit.

*****

Now, you may be wondering why I opened this post with a picture of a black top over white pants.

The pants some of you already know as they are a McCall's pant, blogged here.   The top is new and is another version of New Look 6273, blogged here.

It was made from the leftovers of the Black Rayon Simplicity pants.  I had a 2.5 metre piece, and although it is sold as 112 wide, I measured it and it was 120 wide.  A bit of judicious placing of the pants pattern on the fabric saw me with nice pieces to do something else with - I mean, I worked this out before I cut the pants out, and as soon as I saw the possibility of another garment, decided to use lawn in the pockets of the above pants.   I did have to put a seam in the front of the top (flat-felled for a nice finish)  and cut the lower strip on the crossgrain which does impact on the perception of the colour for this piece:




I used lawn for my facings, as I think it helps to stabilise the neckline. The pattern uses binding.  I meant to cut extra on the sleeve as the pattern uses binding and I prefer a narrow hem.  But with plumbers coming and going all the time, I forgot and had to use binding.  Now, the binding I can get is not very nice - hard and stiff, so the sleeve does wing out a bit:



And, instead of a thread loop at the back of the neck, I made a nice little bias  loop:



And the finished top:









And the costings as per my 2016 goals:

PANTS:   Black Rayon, 2.5 metres Spotlight Sale $7.99 per metre : Au $19.98
                 Simplicity Pattern, RRP $19.99 *
                 Elastic, $1.75, Cotton Lawn, $1.00, Thread/Needles $4.00 allowed.

* I usually do not pay full retail price for patterns, but wait for sales.  I am going to cost at full retail price though because I can't remember what I paid, and anyway, that is the supposed value of the pattern.

PANTS TOTAL:   AU $46.72.


TOP:    Black Rayon Leftovers and Pattern already used therefor "free" this time around.
             Lawn and Interfacing, $1.50 allowed, Binding $1.00, Thread/Needles $4.00 allowed,
             Button, $1.00 to replace (it was from my stash).

TOP TOTAL:  AU $7.50.

That's it for this week - next week has quite a few challenges - the Practice opens again on Tuesday with no telecommunications.  We have been out since December 20th, and were promised lines back on the 8th January.  They were not.  The battle continues.   Not good enough, Telstra.  So what with that and the drains, the start of 2016 has not been good :)

All for now, luckily I have a couple of 2015 garments still to post, because I think sewing is going to be a little slow for the next couple of weeks!

I hope life is more settled in your part of the world:)

Sarah Liz



18 comments:

  1. Oh, Sarah, I am so sorry to read about the challenges you're having. I hope the drain issue is resolved quickly. Although it's starting out as a bummer, I am looking forward to 2016 being a great year for you. I love the fit on your pants, and it's always a bonus when you can get another garment from your "scrap" fabrics.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Oh dear, what a start to the year! Fingers crossed that you'll have working drains and phones soon. I'm amazed that you managed any sewing. The trousers and top are great. Good fit.
    I agree with your comment that even our worst efforts are better than RTW. I find the issue of cost difficult to follow - should a pattern be 'charged' at full RRP because that's its worth the first time and then free the second because it's been reused? If you talk about worth then you'd have to charge fabric that you've managed to salvage from other projects and surely the pattern would come out as cost per use? Particularly when you put a cost on stash. Just a thought. I might cost wedding dress etc in very broad terms as I'm already too late for some of the costings but I'm not going down that route with ordinary sewing.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Oh dear, what a start to the year! Fingers crossed that you'll have working drains and phones soon. I'm amazed that you managed any sewing. The trousers and top are great. Good fit.
    I agree with your comment that even our worst efforts are better than RTW. I find the issue of cost difficult to follow - should a pattern be 'charged' at full RRP because that's its worth the first time and then free the second because it's been reused? If you talk about worth then you'd have to charge fabric that you've managed to salvage from other projects and surely the pattern would come out as cost per use? Particularly when you put a cost on stash. Just a thought. I might cost wedding dress etc in very broad terms as I'm already too late for some of the costings but I'm not going down that route with ordinary sewing.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Just took a minute to look and skim your blog. Wow, things can only get better on the home front with problems this tedious at the beginning of the year.

    You have done beautifully with your first projects for 2016, in spite of all the chaos in your environment. You must be one of that group of people who have a very good ability to focus and shut distractions out.

    The pants fit just great, couldn't be nicer. I like the top on you also. Will the top and pants be worn together as an outfit?

    Sorry to see news of the big fires in western OZ on the BBC World news this morning. Hope that humans and animals have been able to get out of that area safely.

    Take care and I hope your new year becomes a new lovely one within the next few days.

    Ruth, in Florida, USA

    ReplyDelete
  5. Lovely pants! I like the red on you. I love rayon and how lucky to get trousers and a top from your piece of fabric! How is it that drains, toilets, etc know when it is the most inopportune time to break!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Oh Sarah,
    I am so sorry to hear about your drains and all the problems. Not a good start to the New year at all.. Sending a big ole hug..
    We have ran into so many of these "yucky" things, since redoing the old house..Every time we think we are finished, we discover a new chaos.lol I think we are almost finished.. Now...just need to sell our house.

    But, I admire that you made the most of it, and sewed 2 lovely garments..The fit is right on with the pants..
    Hope the get communications going at the practice soon..That is near impossible in a doctors office.
    Happy sewing.

    ReplyDelete
  7. What a way to start the year, but it can only go up from here. Sorry to hear about the issue with the drains/sewage and to add in the rain.

    Since I have been avoiding going to fabric stores because I decided last year to use my pattern/fabric stash, I am going to put Simplicity 1572 on my "need" list. The pants look like they have a great fit, and that little dress is adorable.

    You are off to a great start with 2 garments and its only Jan 9th. Both pieces turned out great, and
    are good staple pieces.

    ReplyDelete
  8. A teacher at a pants drafting class I took said that from the knees up, it's all fit. From the knees down, it's style. Now that you have a tnt for that hard-to-fit crotch curve, you can go crazy with the knees down portion! The pants look great. Stay dry :)

    ReplyDelete
  9. I do sympathise with your drain problems. I have had my moments over the years and this house has blocked up three times in two years. The first time on Good Friday 2014. Why do they always pick holidays?
    Your pants look fabulous and a top from the scraps is a bonus. I must look out for that pattern for myself as I like the jacket as well.
    Best wishes for the New Year, it can only improve. I wish you could send some of that rain over here :)

    ReplyDelete
  10. I admire the fact that you got some productive sewing done in the midst of trying conditions!

    ReplyDelete
  11. Sewer problems are such a pain! And problems always seem to occur on holidays. I had similar issue on Thanksgiving several years ago. Your pants look nice and well fitting!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Oh poor you Sarah! Sewer problems must be the worst! But those pants did turn out great!!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Not a great start to the year. Hope drains and phones sorted really soon. But I like the trousers. Great fit on you.

    ReplyDelete
  14. I love your new trousers and the top as well. Take care! Wishing you all the best in 2016.

    ReplyDelete
  15. What a great looking fit! And the top is so cute. The bias closure was a great choice. Hope all the troubles are out of the way for your 2016, and the rest of the year will be smooth sailing. Ignorance can be bliss at times. :)

    ReplyDelete
  16. Those pants look really good on you! Bravo! Now you have another pants pattern that you can use again and again. I have that pattern too and now I'm really itching to make a muslin with it. Sorry to hear about your home problems and I hope that everything will turn out well.

    ReplyDelete
  17. And BTW, that colour red looks fabulous on you!

    ReplyDelete
  18. Fantastic pants and it is all to do with the Vogue pieces that you used. Oh I hate to leave that bit of fabric alone when I know I can fit a top or skirt into it. Great use of the fabric and it looks very smart.

    ReplyDelete