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Friday, August 26, 2016

New Trousers and the Last of my Old Style.




Hello everyone, my mojo is not quite restored yet, but I have managed to finish these pants and do a whole lot of essential tasks that have been sitting ignored for ages, you know, the sort of jobs no-one wants to do.  Things like paperwork and decluttering stuff.  Lots more to go, but sometimes it is the starting on tedium that is the hardest part.

Well, the new trousers are the last of my old Sarah Liz Sew Style.  Over the three years since I have been blogging, I have gradually re-learnt forgotten skills in making ordinary clothes.  I deliberately started on making a very casual wardrobe for two reasons.  The first was because I needed it, and the second was that it did not matter much if there were problems with the sewing or fit. And I learnt the basics of sewing with knits.  Along the way I learnt, of course, and now feel ready to take my sewing to a new level - which will of course mean more learning.

In order to start to develop a less casual for around the house type of wardrobe, I decided that I needed to update my style knowledge. So I have just undertaken another style course, which I hope will equip me to choose garments that work well for me.  I haven't really worried too much with my casual house wear, because I was at that stage worrying more about just covering my body reasonably adequately.

I followed this tradition when I made my August Make a Garment a Month garment.  I really needed some hardy casual pants for doing things around the house, running chores, shopping and so on.  And I wanted pockets in them.  I used a combination of three patterns, all by Kwik Sew in order to make a pair of straight leg elastic waist trousers with pockets in them.


Kwik Sew 2960 on the left has been used before - I use the straight leg version and eliminate the zip, add a little to the sides and then use elastic in a casing.  For the pockets, I used the curved shape of 3315, and then the pocket pouch shape from 3540.  I shaped the side front insert to match the side of the front trouser pattern (2960).  And then I went ahead and cut and stitched these trousers.
I used a 1.45 of 130 wide stretch cotton twill purchased from Spotlight.

(Kwik Sew 2960 has been made up a number of times - if you are interested, click here. )

The front has worked nicely, and you can see the pockets. Now, normally I do not wear a white t-shirt worn over a vest, tucked into pants. I have a non existent waist, and am short waisted, so this is certainly a very non flattering look.  We non waisted rectangles with tums know that we have to wear a garment that skims our mid section outside our pants.  Still, we sewing bloggers know what we must do for our art:

Here goes:


Yes, pockets!! Now, the side view:



I have lightened the side view photo so that I can show you the diagonal wrinkles that are occurring from my high hip area to under my bottom.  I am very flat here, and always get these wrinkles, even with RTW pants.  Most fit alterations seem to remove under the bottom fullness that is horizontal, not diagonal. I have done those alterations and mostly eliminated under the bottom wrinkles, but I still have this problem that I have not yet solved.  Mostly because I think I was just glad to get pants that fitted me better than RTW, which were always voluminous on my very slim hips and thighs.


I have lightened the back view as well.  This clearly shows the diagonal formation of wrinkles.  In fact, looking at my very neat derriere, it is almost a neat triangle - no cheek curves going south and filling out the trousers.  That is why the wrinkling.  Also, with no thighs to speak of, and very straight, slim, legs, I need to adjust and shorten the side leg of this type of pants. RTW look worse - I have about 5 inches of fabric flopping around my thighs, so my pants are a marked improvement.  But I could improve them more, I think.

But not now.  I urgently needed these, and in those situations, I will settle for my better than RTW fit but needs improvement when I have time.

And after all, when they are being worn, no-one except a dedicated sewer, notices these things.  And a lot of the time, when you are moving and sitting in them, none of these fitting issues will be obvious at all.

Well, that's it for the show and tell.  I still have about three winter garments unblogged, but for now, it is time to think about my new style requirements, which just happens to coincide with a new season to sew for.  I think I am feeling my mojo slowly return, even though it is still really cold here.

Bye for now,

Sarah Liz


42 comments:

  1. You've made some good observations, the most sensible is that when you wear your trousers, no one will notice and they do need to let you move around. I have the opposite problem of course, but I have been thinking about making a different size back to the front. I'd go up but maybe using a smaller size in the back may help? Basics are always needed aren't they.

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    1. Thank you - yes, having looked at lots of backsides recently, I realise that no pair of pants is perfect. I do agree, a different size front to back may work well. Must try that too.

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  2. I love how you combined 3 patterns create the style you desired! Trousers seem to be a fitting challenge for most sewers, including myself.

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    1. Thank you Regina - and yes, trousers do seem to stress all but a few of us.

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  3. I wonder...well, perhaps adding about a cm to the side length, at the waistline, will help? In the top picture it appears that the side seams bow out just the tiniest bit, this may indicate that there's not quite enough side length. I have to do it to mine too, and I am also a rectangle with a tummy and a flattish booty, though not nearly as slim a one as you are! See where that gets you.

    I think the smaller size on the back piece might just be the ticket for the excess fullness, as Summer Flies says.

    In any case, this one is SOOO close-a few tweaks, and really very few, could turn it into a TNT (tried and true) pattern, and you can whip up a pair whenever you need to without having to worry that they won't fit nicely.

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    1. Hello, and welcome to my blog - thank you for your suggestions - and you are right, this is very close to a TNT for me.

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  4. Can't wait to see what's coming next! It will be interesting to follow along and see how you will incorporate your new style knowledge in your sewing. Did you take on online course? You go, SarahLizNewStyle!

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    1. Hello Marianne - it will be interesting, I agree - especially as I will want to still use the old stash up. Will post more as more unfolds.

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  5. Sounds very exciting. I would like to know what course you took as well.

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    1. Hello Janine, - I will have to write a post about this in the next week or so.

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  6. Your pants are great. If you are concerned about the back wrinkles, have a look at Silhoutte Patterns. There are many videos on YouTube regarding fitting issues in pants. These are the only patterns I buy now because they are so well drafted.
    Hope your mojo comes back soon, can't wait to see your new style!

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    1. Thank you Sandra - I will have to look at the Silhouette patterns range. Mojo is slowly coming back - only I have to catch up some work at the office now!

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  7. Oh your course sounds like fun!! Can't wait to see how you tweak things!

    I like the pants and am like you...good fit is good for me. Photos taken straight on, stock still don't represent wear. I'm okay with a few wrinkles in some garments, especially when they're much needed.

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    1. Yes, we tend to forget that we even tend to stand more rigidly when taking photo's of pants - that increases wrinkles too. Tweaking will take time, so will add incrementally :)

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  8. Love the pants.. great job adding the pockets..[I too, need pockets.ha]
    Basic clothes are always needed, I am in need of some "around the house/running errand' pants.. Fall is almost here , and I am ready to sew again.It has been a long time.. The house is almost finished, so life should slow down..
    The course sounds fun..Cant wait to hear all the new things you learn.
    Happy sewing.

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    1. Thank you Judy - yes, basics are after all what we wear most. Glad the house project is coming to an end - it's about time you had some sewing time again :)

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  9. Thanks for speaking out for us "rectangles" and compromising for your art. Although, you are a much more slender rectangle than I am. :) I think your pants look great.

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    1. Thank you Linda - I'll be talking more about rectangle shapes, you can be sure!

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  10. I'm looking forward to following you on your journey.

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  11. I'm looking forward to following you on your journey.

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  12. We have different figure types except for one thing flat low rear end. I solved the wrinkle problem by scooping out my crotch. The front inseams need to be matched and the peak that forms cut off. This is best done on a muslin or before the pants are sewn up since you then need to lower the waist. There is only so much that you can fix this because we have Zachary flat rears. But it does look better. Other than that your pants are slim and chic and stylish.

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    1. Thank you Nancy - yes, the flat rear tends to develop over the years. Scooping helps, but I suspect there is also a problem with the front crotch shape too, that is adding to the pull. I'm working on solving this slowly.

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  13. Your pants look great and you are right that no one will notice the wrinkles when you are moving about. Love the addition of the pockets. Great job!

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    1. Thank you Star - and certainly no-one will notice when I am sitting down :)

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  14. A combo of three patterns -- that is incredible -- yielded a great trouser. I especially like the pockets. Pants are the devil to fit in my opinion (If I ever move to a big city, I am taking a pant fitting course!).

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    1. Thank you Annie - it's tedious combining patterns, but worth it. Well, when you find the city with the pant fitting course, let me know, and I'll join you!!

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  15. Agreeing with Regina Cee, sometimes one pattern doesn't have all of the details we want and combining those that do is the answer.

    Nakisha often cuts her skirts with two sizes: 16 front, 18 back. Have you tried cutting a smaller size on the back as Schmoomom suggested?

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    1. Hello L - as you say, combining works well. Yes, am considering doing the different size back and front, I do that with tops sometimes.

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  16. I love your pair of trousers. They really fit you very well - its certainly difficult to achieve a perfect fit, especially for us with slim figures. I look forward to seeing what you make to suit your new style....I agree...a new season is a perfect time to start working on a new style.

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    1. Thank you - yes, being slim brings it's own challenges, which I am sure is not quite realised - I think people think being slim equates to no fitting problems. Not the case.

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  17. It looks beautiful. Good combination black and white which gives a professional look.

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    1. Thank you - even when I dress casually I like to look smartish.

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  18. These are a pair of great looking pants! Front and back! Sometimes I wonder if anything will get rid of extra wrinkles....! Those do not look odd and simply look like a pant in wear. I really like this style on you. Hope you continue to feel better. :)

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    1. Thank you Lisa - and wrinkles, you are right, the pants were being worn - I was moving back and forth to set the camera timer, bending to put down my glasses etc. So they are not "smoothed down" for the photo, but were as they were!

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  19. P.S. Forgot to say.... look forward to hearing (and seeing!) more about your style journey! :)

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    1. Thank you Lisa, I look forward to sharing with you

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  20. I always enjoyed your pants making and this one looks so nice on you. Love those pockets and can not wait to hear more about your new course :)

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    1. Thank you Hana - there will be more to write on pants making, I can assure you. And I will talk about the style course in due course.

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  21. Well done. Pockets too. Have fun choosing your next sewing project.

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    1. Thank you Louise - err, I have been playing around with trousers again, and plan trousers for my next project. Must be a glutton for punishment!

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  22. As sewers we see our errors and lack of perfection more than others do. If others do at all. Pockets are lovely on the trousers! Which course are you doing? It sounds interesting. Good luck with the mojo... mine too is slightly creeping back as I have just finished my first project in 2 months. Still no sewing room though but there is light at the end of the builders tunnel. Happy sewing Sarah Liz x

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