I've been having a strange life over the last few months and it has affected my sewing time quite a bit. But on Thursday, I decided to just have a day to myself to sew. And I worked on my May garment for the Make a Garment a Month project. Our theme this month is Sew Merry May, and I thought this lovely cheerful fabric was Merry enough. The fabric also reminded me of the sort of fabrics I liked years ago as a teenager. And the flowing style was also reminiscent of teenage memories.
The sewing of this top, though, was anything but Merry. The fabric is a slippery rayon twill like fabric, and it misbehaved the whole way through. Plus my attention was not good - if I have had things in real life that are draining, I find that it takes me a while to fire up my sewing brain again.
But, with lots of sighing and unpicking and what not, I got there!
The pattern I used was Simplicity 8216:
I had previously done a quick toile of this top. I usually use size 8 around the arm, neck and shoulder area, and then go out to a 12. I haven't made many Simplicity garments, and found this approach to size was wrong as the 8 was far too small. So I cut out a size 12 in all areas. I think Simplicity paterns are going to fit me well with little alteration.
I measure the top ( I made version C) and found it very long - more tunic length, although the picture shows it to finish at hip/crotch height. I am 5'4", or about 162 cms, so not over short. I shortened the top by about 3 inches /10 cm.
As I knew the fabric I was working with was going to be a little difficult, I decided to omit the cuff and use an elastic casing instead at the bottom of the sleeve. Sleeves are usually far to long on me, so I thought that by doing this I would have the sleeve finishing at about the right point. I made the casing too deep, so edged it, which I think looks good. Then my elastic wouldn't fit, so I found another which happened to be softer which is just perfect for this sleeve finish:
I also added an inside yoke - the pattern just uses a single piece so seams are exposed. The pattern had a facing for the back neck but I thought that I would get annoyed at seeing the exposed seams with a facing above it. I wanted a nice, neat, finish, plus I thought the double yoke would help to brace this drapey blouse- more body at the shoulder for it to hang from. I interfaced the lining yoke at the neck edge.
I don't use the Burrito method as I find that a bit tedious - all the rolling, when with a yoke this deep you can just get right in there and sew by going through an armhole. Much simpler.
I used the front facing and sewed that into the yoke - and realised later, that I had made a mistake - the pattern had the tie coming right down the front. But when I thought about it, I prefered my version as it comes straight from the neck /facing join and that is already low enough for me. So if I make this again, I am going to repeat my mistake.
The hem was just a standard 5/8 inch /1.5 cm turn twice and stitch sort of hem:
Disaster nearly struck as I was finishing this garment - I was very careful overlocking the armhole seam, flipping the sleeve neatly out of the way, or so I thought. I was just threading my ends through, when I notice - I had just caught the sleeve into the overlocking. It didn't look as though I had cut the sleeve, so I carefully unpicked the overlocking - and this fabric is dreadful to unpick, if you catch a thread it pulls dreadfully. I got back to the caught bit, and released that. I had pulled and torn/cut a thread, but as it was right under the armhole, I knew it would not be noticed. I blobbed some clear nail polish on the thread and area under it - just a small blob. That will stop any further damage.
Of course, then I was upset, so I had to give myself a good talking too, and the top and I had to make friends with each other again. Today, all is forgiven, and I am very Merry about this top.
And it even works nicely with my serious looking glasses, which I wear on serious sorts of occasions:
Oh, and I do plan to wear this over a black t-shirt. I have some with a lower neckline, which I will wear under this - I am wearing a high neck one today and notice that it doesn't quite work. I do need a layer under this, because the key hole is just a bit low for my liking. I also get very cold, so need the extra layers.
That's it for now, and if any of you want to join our group, do email me, stylishsarah251@gmail to join the Facebook group (you need a Facebook account) or if you are on Instagram and want to take part on Instagram, you will find me here .
Bye for now, and wishing you the best of sewing luck this week.