I managed to make these trousers this week. It doesn't take me long to make trousers, because I sort of know what to do automatically now. I often sew in the morning and evening before and after the days activities as well, so if I am familiar with the construction of a simple garment it is a fairly quick process.
(Before I continue, the pictures on this post are quite small - partly because there are quite a few, and partly because when I make them larger, the resolution was very poor).
I decided to make up a Burda Miss Petite pattern. I do find that most trouser patterns don't fit me well, and look a bit woeful from the rear end. As I am a petite I wondered if this range of patterns would work better for my shape. I chose Burda 6889.
I chose the tapered pant version. As this is my official July Make a Garment a Month garment, I also chose a piece of black corduroy (from Spotlight) that had been washed and stashed some years ago - our them this month is Seasonal Stashbusting.
The pattern has quite different measurements for this range - a larger waist to hip ratio, and a very different hip and crotch shape. I chose size 10 and widened the waist to size 12. As many trouser patterns now sit below the waist, with no waistline therefor marked, I had no idea where the pants where going to sit. I raised the rise at the back and front and added to the waist height - less at the sides. This seemed to work, although I may have added a bit much. I shall wear the pants and see what they feel like - I have to admit they feel really comfortable, and I like a high waist on my pants as otherwise they tend to slide down my slim hips, and I have to yank them up frequently.
As it so happens, I was probably a bit generous in the waist measurement because I wanted these trousers to fit over layers of tops in winter. So, I added some elastic to the back of the waistband, something I like to do in any case as this allows for a bit more give with movement. I also had to widen the waistband in order to accomodate the elastic - I did this by reducing the seam allowances. So the trousers are also a little higher than planned because of the wider waistband
I was happily advanced with sewing, when I noticed a flaw in the pocket bag. I blobbed some clear nail polish on it - you can see the nail polish mark and flaw in the picture below:
Of course, like all sewers, I grapple with perfection sometimes, and I was a bit cross about this. Especially as I had checked the fabric for flaws and couldn't see any obvious ones. But then this is black, and it does get bits of fluff on it, so I obviously had not noticed. So after a bit of self talk I put in the zip, and added the waistband - with elastic in the back:
Happy with my pants, I then did the hems. I finished one - machine hemmed. I finished the second and noticed a piece of fluff inside just above the hem I flicked it away, or tried to. But you know what I am going to tell you - I found another flaw. Which was not hidden inside.
I blobbed some nail polish on it and decided that perhaps, just perhaps, I could live with it. It was late, so I thought it was time to call it a day.
THE NEXT DAY:
I woke up, decided that I could just not live with it. I made a cup of tea, and went to my pattern and traced the bottom of the legs of the pants. I worked out where the hem should go, and then drew a line, and then did a mirror image of the leg extension below the line:
Then I thought I really should check that there were no more flaws in the trousers. should have done that before drawing the alterations, but didn't think of it. It was early...
After three checks with a bright torch I decided the rest of the pants were okay. I checked the remains of my fabric, and found that down one end near the selvedge were a few flaws, about three inches in. This was the end I cut my pocket bags from. Most of the pants were cut the other end, so they were fine. I made sure that I avoided the remaining flaws and cut out the new trouser bottoms:
Sewed them on, overlocked them, turned them up, and topstitched the outside:
So now my trousers have a designed hem - in fact, I really like this finish and have kept my alteration pattern pieces in case I want to do this again (if I use this pattern again).
There is also a plus in that I can fold this hem back into a little cuff if I want to.
So, quite a saga, but success in the end. I thought I would share what I had done, just in case any of you ever have a similar problem.
Anyway, I now have a nice pair of pants, with lovely pockets, which are comfortable to wear and that I can live with :). And corduroy is not cheap, so it was worth the effort of fixing these.
And they are easy to move in - that rise is not too high after all, and I like plenty of ease in a woven. These are casual, corduroy trousers, after all.
So, I am happy with these - and they fill a gap in my wardrobe.
I'm not sure what my next project will be - I am still getting over this one.
That's it for now, back another week,