Wednesday, January 30, 2013

New Skirt Finally Finished (part 1)

It was a really wet day yesterday but I used it to my advantage and spent the time sewing and finishing my first sewing project for 2013.  I based the skirt on a New Look pattern (6103) but made some adaptions.  The pattern was for a small faced yoke style waistband, with  long pleat at the centre back that extended up about 25-  30  cms  from the hem (about 10 to 12 inches) As I only had 80 cm of 127 wide fabric to play with (less than a yard of just under 50 inch fabric) I decided to alter the pattern and add a waistband, remove the pleat and replace with a kick pleat. This was the pattern and fabric I used:

New Look 6103.  Fabric: stretch cotton sateen

And this is what my version looks like:

Sarah Liz  

My design decisions for this skirt were based not only on the fact that I had a small amount of material to make it from, but also because a waistband suits me more than a facing or slightly dropped waist.   Because I am rectangular/slightly inverted in shape  My biggest visual body part is my Tummy and not my Bottom, Hip and Thigh area - on bad tummy days there is not much difference in measurement between my high hip and tummy area and my hip measurement.  Rectangles don't have much difference in measurement between bust and hips, but inverted triangles can have a waist indentation, which I try and use.  Because I am too slim at the moment, a waistband helps to hold the skirt up, and being a little loose can accommodate a little more middle, or can have a winter t-shirt tucked in (underneath a jumper).   If I make a low waist skirt, there is a risk that it might sit around the visually largest part of my body - my tummy - and accentuate that, without showing off my slim hips.  A waistband also allows me to ease a little extra into the front of the garment.  The kick pleat of course was because I only had enough fabric width to make this instead of a conventional pleat.

The fabric was chosen because it is shades of grey, black and white - all colours in my current wardrobe, so the skirt will go with at least two, if not three or more garments I already own.  The colours also work for winter 2013 (which we Australians aren't yet enjoying) but has plenty of black and white in it, which is on trend for Spring 2013 (we Australians are lucky because we can start planning out Spring Summer 2013 and wear it before you do. Conversely winter - in mid winter I will be able to start working on trends from Autumn/Winter 2013/2014).  It's also a mid weight cotton sateen so I can wear it on cooler summer days and in winter over tights.

To adapt the skirt I lay a traced sloper of my shape over the New Look pattern by matching grainlines.  I raised the waist and redrew it according to my sloper so that the shape fits a waistband, and not a facing.  I added extra width for the kick pleat.  I tend to add plenty and then cut back when the garment is being made - that way I see what looks best.

I also tested my interfacing and decided on what thread to use - I settled on grey for overlocking and a dark charcoal for the seams.  Black was too heavy looking.  I also decided on a grey zip, because grey thread on a black zip would annoy me greatly.

Interfacing  trial

Overlocked edge - grey chosen

I tested a various pieces of interfacing.  On woven fabric skirts I usually use vilene ( a non-woven interfacing unless it is a really good skirt, in which case I use McCalls sheerweft.  Sheerweft is a woven interfacing  has some give in it and is suitable for knits.  I used it because this is a stretch fabric and if I get bigger the stretch might be handy.  If I wanted a non-give waist band I would use a non-woven interfacing.  But woe betide if you try and stretch vilene - it pulls off and you will get bubbles and ripples.

Next comes the fun bit - putting the skirt together.  Sew darts, insert zip and put in kick pleat.  Then fit.

Lapped insertion of zipper
Inside view of zipper
Kick pleat -edges finished
Kick pleat being turned

(Cont'd  part two of this blog)

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