Fitted blouse contest on PR - Pattern alterations

Another week has passed and more work has been done on Vogue V8833, a fitted wrap blouse. (For those of you interested in this contest, it ends on 31/03/13 - for more information contact Maria at cleverthinking99.blogspot.com ).

Vogue 8833

I decided to make the size 12 as my bust is about 34 inches/ 87 cm's - actually my bust is  mostly rib cage! I have a small back, so nothing every quite fits.  I decided on size 12 (34 inch/87 cm's bust) because it is a long time since I have used a Vogue pattern and I am not sure what the sizes are like nowadays. 

To recap on last week's progress, the original pattern pre-test:

The front fits well at bust - the little black dots indicate where the bust should fit, and fit it does. The shoulders are too large.

The back is too large across upper back and shoulders falling off!  Alterations needed in these areas...

The first alteration

The sleeve was detached as I was not happy with the amount of ease in the front sleeve - far too much. The princess seams at the back between arm and waist were taken in. I then had to tackle some of the sloppiness in the shoulder area.  I thought I needed a narrow back alteration.  So I took in an amount from shoulder to just above the princess seam as the second alteration.  I also took in an amount at the front so the shoulders matched. 

The second alteration

 

The third alteration was replacing the sleeve.  I took a tuck out of the front of the sleeve at the sleeve cap to remove some of the excess ease.  

The third alteration

As you can seem, I have the blouse on my old dummy, and the sleeve does not look a good shape with these alterations.  I decided to change the shape on the pattern to make the shape more pleasing.

Pattern alterations.

You can see the alterations on the back if you look closely - a paper tuck is just visible.  You can see how I have also altered the shape of the armhole at the shoulder edge.

Sleeve - to the right at the top, two folded darts to take out excess ease.

Alterations thus far- Back

Alterations thus far - Front.

(As you can see, my poor old dummy sometimes gets a bit lop-sided - she has travelled a lot, like me, and has started to show signs of age.  I have been threatening to replace her for years, but she takes no notice of me now, because it has never happened!  I often have to re-balance her - but what are friends for?) 

Well, that is enough for now, I need to retest my alterations on another muslin.  I am not yet confident enough to proceed with the final garment.

Sarah Liz :)