Trouser Muslins and Sewing Plans
I have plenty of trousers to get me by which means I can take my time with making trousers that I want to make.
The first pair I want to make are Kwik Sew 3853. I have made a pair of Kwik Sew pants before, but being a novice, the fit was not that good. Strangely though, I wear them quite a bit around the house for doing the chores as they are comfortable and I like them more than my old RTW house pants.
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Kwik Sew 3853 |
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Front |
Nancy Zieman says that pants/trouser patterns are always too baggy in the leg and to go down a size smaller than your measurements suggest - and I think this picture proves she is right. (Book: Pattern Fitting with Confidence).
I am going to go back to this pattern and quickly redo with making alterations in leg and crotch area - I won't invest too much time, as my first pair of trousers will only be made from cheap cotton drill. If the alterations work, and the pant looks good, I'll make a pair in soft corduroy going into next winter.
The next muslin I made up was form Kwik Sew patterrn 3363.
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Kwik Sew 3363 |
My face again says it all :). Muslin fatigue ! I like these pants but there is some pulling across the tummy area. I need to work out why - I don't usually have this problem. Horizontal wrinkles usually indicate tightness somewhere - but again, I have never had this problem with any other trouser pattern, or RTW pants.
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Kwik Sew Front |
The back of this Kwik Sew pattern is not too bad - especially compared with other Kwik Sew pattern I am trialling.
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Kwik Sew Back |
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A retweaked pattern |
What I didn't like about the Surefit system was how huge the legs were - just look at the fabric hanging in the inner leg - these look like little culottes, not trousers.
However, now I have more trouser knowledge (these muslins teach you something), I will be able to rectify that - so in due course, I will have another attempt at using the SureFit system using better measurements and more diligence :).
And some of you have asked about my experimental crotch curve - yes, I did use that in my retweaked crotch. I used a combination of Surefit Crotch Shape, and using the size 6 crotch depth.
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SureFit Crotch Curve overlaid on retweaked pants crotch |
And - then checked with my experimental crotch curve - and guess what? Almost perfect match .
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My Experimental Crotch Curve. |
I'll be retweaking the crotch a little more by taking out a little more front - Janine suggested with a comment yesterday that dropping the crotch a bit may solve the last of the problems.
So, that is my pants fitting story so far. Next week I hope to be making progress on Kwik Sew 3853, the pleated front pants. There are pleated front pants with narrow legs on the catwalk for Autumn Winter 2014 - so I have time to practice this pattern via a muslin, summer wearable muslin, and then pin wale corduroy for the "real thing".
I also will make up the wide leg Kwik Sew Pant in a linen or chambray for summer - Armani had really nice wide leg pants - some with pleats. I'll do the flat front for now as it will still give the same effect.
Sarah Liz :)
Oh Sarah Liz - what a work... however I agree making more and more muslin help to understand the fitting issues and construction and corrections. It is so dificult to do this alone. I will take a break from my trousers... for a while ;-)
ReplyDeleteHi, yes I understand the need for a break from trousers - I did that for a while, but decided this week to think about what I might want to make :)
DeleteIt is truly a learning curve Sarah. It takes time, but you are almost getting the fit you desire. Maybe moving away from this project for a bit will give you a fresh perspective when you return. m.
ReplyDeleteI tend to be a problem solver - so I find I just incubate while doing the ironing - I also don't just focus on trousers but do other simple garments in between :)
DeleteYour persistence is nothing short of remarkable. You are certainly on your way to the perfect fit.
ReplyDeleteYes, I'm a bit like a dog with a bone sometimes :)
DeleteHi Sarah! I am enjoying your post and thank you for showing us all the details. I am going to make a trouser in the future, I hope I can make it:)
ReplyDeleteI am sure you will make a great fitting trouser:)
Of course you will be able to Hana - you've made gorgeous shorts already - they are little trousers - so you can already do the top bit:)
DeleteSarah Liz, I'm so impressed with your patience in getting the fit right on your trousers. I'm sure I would have given up by now!
ReplyDeleteSometimes I do give up Sam, then a few weeks later go back to trying again - maybe I'm a slow learner :)
DeleteOh and you also try different types of trousers at once! You are amazing. I'm afraid I'd never have that patience... But I'm sure I'll try trousers some day, and then I can use your experience for reference, I'm certain it's going to be very helpful :)
ReplyDeleteYes, I play around with ideas and then work out what I want to pursue and in what fabric, or what pattern will work, and which is not worth the effort. Or what will work with modification.
ReplyDelete