Trouser Muslins and Sewing Plans
I have plenty of trousers to get me by which means I can take my time with making trousers that I want to make.
The first pair I want to make are Kwik Sew 3853. I have made a pair of Kwik Sew pants before, but being a novice, the fit was not that good. Strangely though, I wear them quite a bit around the house for doing the chores as they are comfortable and I like them more than my old RTW house pants.
|Kwik Sew 3853|
Nancy Zieman says that pants/trouser patterns are always too baggy in the leg and to go down a size smaller than your measurements suggest - and I think this picture proves she is right. (Book: Pattern Fitting with Confidence).
I am going to go back to this pattern and quickly redo with making alterations in leg and crotch area - I won't invest too much time, as my first pair of trousers will only be made from cheap cotton drill. If the alterations work, and the pant looks good, I'll make a pair in soft corduroy going into next winter.
The next muslin I made up was form Kwik Sew patterrn 3363.
|Kwik Sew 3363|
My face again says it all :). Muslin fatigue ! I like these pants but there is some pulling across the tummy area. I need to work out why - I don't usually have this problem. Horizontal wrinkles usually indicate tightness somewhere - but again, I have never had this problem with any other trouser pattern, or RTW pants.
|Kwik Sew Front|
The back of this Kwik Sew pattern is not too bad - especially compared with other Kwik Sew pattern I am trialling.
|Kwik Sew Back|
|A retweaked pattern|
However, now I have more trouser knowledge (these muslins teach you something), I will be able to rectify that - so in due course, I will have another attempt at using the SureFit system using better measurements and more diligence :).
And some of you have asked about my experimental crotch curve - yes, I did use that in my retweaked crotch. I used a combination of Surefit Crotch Shape, and using the size 6 crotch depth.
|SureFit Crotch Curve overlaid on retweaked pants crotch|
And - then checked with my experimental crotch curve - and guess what? Almost perfect match .
|My Experimental Crotch Curve.|
I'll be retweaking the crotch a little more by taking out a little more front - Janine suggested with a comment yesterday that dropping the crotch a bit may solve the last of the problems.
So, that is my pants fitting story so far. Next week I hope to be making progress on Kwik Sew 3853, the pleated front pants. There are pleated front pants with narrow legs on the catwalk for Autumn Winter 2014 - so I have time to practice this pattern via a muslin, summer wearable muslin, and then pin wale corduroy for the "real thing".
I also will make up the wide leg Kwik Sew Pant in a linen or chambray for summer - Armani had really nice wide leg pants - some with pleats. I'll do the flat front for now as it will still give the same effect.
Sarah Liz :)