Test Garment, Marcy Tilton Jacket V8982.

Here it is - my first version of Marcy Tilton's unlined jacket - Vogue pattern 8982.  I say first, because I love this little jacket and there will be more...

This is the one of the variations of the jacket shown on the pattern envelope,  for those of you unfamiliar with this pattern:

And the line drawings:

As you can see from the picture on the model, this jacket is extremely wide over the shoulders. While the jacket looks fitted, when I read the measurements on the pattern pieces, I knew it was not this fitted - size 8 had a finished bust of 39.5 inches.    Now, if I make a size 12 jacket, that usually finishes around 39 inches, which gives quite a few inches ease for wearing garments underneath.  So, I decided that size 8 would probably be about the right size for a loose jacket.  I wanted a combination of View B jacket  and View D sleeves

First I made a quick muslin to check the size:

I decided that this was about right - it is a loose, unlined jacket, after all.  The shoulders fell off me, so I removed half an inch.  I had already removed two inches from the sleeve length prior to cutting this muslin - the hem allowance is still on - that is one inch.  I decided the garment looked good at this length, so I added a hem allowance in addition to the one on the pattern.

Then I made the jacket up out of a poly-viscose fabric I have had in the stash for 20 years or more.  I'm not sure where it came from, because I don't like it, and doubt I ever did.  I think I inherited it from somewhere.  Anyway, I thought this would be a great use of the fabric to further test this pattern.  Sometimes it is a good idea to fully test how the garment in made before investing in a "good" version.

The pattern was easy enough to make up.  I did find it strange that the front band facing was not interfaced, as I thought it would flop around without interfacing - and how can you make satisfactory buttonholes without interfacing behind them?  So I fused an interfacing onto the front facings for the bands and front.

Without more ado, here are the pictures, front, back and nearly sideways:

Looking like a little toy soldier here!

Given this is unfitted, the back fits quite well!

Again, given this is unfitted, quite a nice fit.

Overall, I am very happy with this jacket, and plan to make it again.  The shoulders are still a little large, and I will move them in a bit more on another version.  Luckily, I have some wool in my stash that is about the same weight as the fabric in this jacket which would look lovely made up. 

I also think this would look lovely as a blouse - in fact, I think I will make another and move those shoulders in a bit before making the wool jacket.  That way it can be a second test garment before the good one.

One or two more shots, just for fun:

I love these little flared corners!

And the overall hang of this little jacket.

I'm glad I made this jacket as my July challenge "sew your wish" for the Make a Garment a Month Challenge.  It is a long time since I have made a jacket of any sort, and I have always wanted a little Marcy Tilton garment.

Bye for now,

Sarah Liz

P.S.  I've also made a pledge to cost all my garments.  So here goes

Pattern - I usually buy Vogue at half price, occasionally less.  So I will allow AU $15.00.  Fabric was from stash, if I had to replace say AU $12.00 per metre - I used 1.75.  Thread was purchased, AU $2.99.  Plus serger thread, allow AU $1.00.  Interfacing, I use a good interfacing - say AU $2.50.  And buttons from stash, to replace, AU $2.99.  Plus needle and calico allowance, $2.00, and tracing paper/pen allowance $1.00

TOTAL:  $48.48 - which is not bad for a very wearable designer jacket.