Continuing in Green, Butterick Jacket B5701.

I did get rather a lot of this green quilt backing cotton - 3 metres X 260cms, @ $3.00 per metre! - but thought it would be about the right price to experiment with. So far, a dress (great pattern), trousers (great pattern) , and now this simply, boxy, jacket.
Which I love, even though it is square and boxy, and some would say unflattering. Not to my eyes, it's just a relaxed, wearable, classic shape as far as I am concerned.
The pattern I used was Butterick B5701, a See and Sew version of a jacket that was also in the main jacket section at 4 times the price :
I really liked the straight lines on this jacket, and the seaming and top stitching. I also wanted to try an unlined jacket, because tailored, fully lined jackets, which I can do reasonably well, are just not what I tend to wear much of the year in a sub tropical climate. The fabrics recommended were line, poplin, lightweight denim, and lightweight broadcloth. My cheap old cotton is a bit stiff, so I thought it would impersonate denim quite well, and give me a good idea of the sort of result expected.
As the fabric was cheap, I did not bother with a muslin, but went straight into the jacket. As you can see from the main pattern picture, it has a large amount of ease built into the style. I decided to go with this, more to see what the results were like than anything else. I cut size 10 neck and shoulders, 12 back, and 14 front. I often use this combination of sizes (or size 8, 10/12-14) and it normally works, but I think next time I will go down to 10 back and 12 front.
I settled on 3/4 sleeves, because this will be a late summer/early autumn sort of jacket. I liked the collared version, so that is what I did.
All seams were flat felled, which I love to do. It gives a nice finish. I did not flat fell the side seams, but used a binding. I also used a binding on the front facing. I wanted to try these techniques, because, unbelievably, I have not done them before, in all my years of sewing. I do think a trial run on a wearable muslin is a good idea with an untried technique, however simple, just to get the feel. The armholes were also bound, but I've done that before now, and don't mind doing this now - a year or so ago, I would still avoid binding - something I had never enjoyed, I suspect since childhood, were my first attempts at finishing binding by machine were a bit woeful. Just one of my very few sewing blocks.
Then other things I will do quite happily, things like flat fell seams and top stitching for instance, which some people do not like to do.
And with this jacket I had plenty to satisfy me, with the back
And the pockets:
And the collar and collar band, and front band:
And, I even found buttons to match, but they are smaller than the recommended 28 mm, they are more 23 mm. The pattern used 4 of these larger buttons, but with my smaller size, I though five were needed, so the buttonholes were re-spaced.
But of course, the winning feature in this jacket have to be the wonderful pockets:
And the nice shape on the side:
And the top stitching and seaming on the back, which you can't really see here:
Well, I hate to start saying goodbye with my back to you, so one more of the front:
I do like this jacket, and I think I would like to make another one day in a much better fabric, but I will go down a size. It's wearable and relaxed, but still smart.
I've nearly got to the end of the green posts - one more to go, the little green skirt. Next week:
I drafted the side pockets myself. An if you look very closely, you will see that there is a fold down the front, with a little kick pleat. I love this variation , and will show you more closely next week.
Until then,
Hoping you are all well and happy,
Sarah Liz
Very nice jacket! I'm a fan of flat felling too. I find it very satisfying.
ReplyDeleteVery smart jacket. I love flat felling too. Such a neat finish.
ReplyDeleteIt is a great looking jacket. I think the green series has been very successful for you. I really do love the colour on you.
ReplyDeleteVery beautiful jacket. I usually avoid to choose a jacket pattern without a lining but I love your jacket! Well done!
ReplyDeleteYou are certainly getting your money's worth out of this fabric! Lovely jacket, I like your hong kong finish seams. (I enjoy doing these) but havent tackled a armhole binding yet. I agree your jacket is relaxed but still smart.
ReplyDeleteAnother beautiful make. You really got a lot out of this fabric.
ReplyDeleteI am amazed at how much you've managed to make from just 3 metres of fabric, even if it is wider than usual! Great jacket. As you day, manages to be relaxed, wearable yet smart
ReplyDeleteA gorgeous jacket. It looks fabulous on you
ReplyDeleteI am such a jacket lover, yours - wonderful!
ReplyDeleteI have never done bound seams, and it does give a very neat finish. Also I'm not at all sure about flat fell seams either - need practice. The jacket looks really smart, a bit Chanel style I think. You can wear the short jacket very well, and I like the seaming in the line drawing. Your green fabric is going a long way and proving an excellent investment.
ReplyDeleteLoving this series!
ReplyDeleteHave you tried the jacket+dress or jacket+trousers???
LOVE everything about this cute jacket!! It fits you so well and you look fantastic in green. :)
ReplyDeleteGreat jacket, Sarah Liz. I see all the topstitching, it's lovely. Love the pockets too :)
ReplyDeleteThis is a really great looking jacket and the smaller size across your shoulders is a great idea.
ReplyDelete