Continuing in Green, Butterick Jacket B5701.
I did get rather a lot of this green quilt backing cotton - 3 metres X 260cms, @ $3.00 per metre! - but thought it would be about the right price to experiment with. So far, a dress (great pattern), trousers (great pattern) , and now this simply, boxy, jacket.
Which I love, even though it is square and boxy, and some would say unflattering. Not to my eyes, it's just a relaxed, wearable, classic shape as far as I am concerned.
The pattern I used was Butterick B5701, a See and Sew version of a jacket that was also in the main jacket section at 4 times the price :
I really liked the straight lines on this jacket, and the seaming and top stitching. I also wanted to try an unlined jacket, because tailored, fully lined jackets, which I can do reasonably well, are just not what I tend to wear much of the year in a sub tropical climate. The fabrics recommended were line, poplin, lightweight denim, and lightweight broadcloth. My cheap old cotton is a bit stiff, so I thought it would impersonate denim quite well, and give me a good idea of the sort of result expected.
As the fabric was cheap, I did not bother with a muslin, but went straight into the jacket. As you can see from the main pattern picture, it has a large amount of ease built into the style. I decided to go with this, more to see what the results were like than anything else. I cut size 10 neck and shoulders, 12 back, and 14 front. I often use this combination of sizes (or size 8, 10/12-14) and it normally works, but I think next time I will go down to 10 back and 12 front.
I settled on 3/4 sleeves, because this will be a late summer/early autumn sort of jacket. I liked the collared version, so that is what I did.
All seams were flat felled, which I love to do. It gives a nice finish. I did not flat fell the side seams, but used a binding. I also used a binding on the front facing. I wanted to try these techniques, because, unbelievably, I have not done them before, in all my years of sewing. I do think a trial run on a wearable muslin is a good idea with an untried technique, however simple, just to get the feel. The armholes were also bound, but I've done that before now, and don't mind doing this now - a year or so ago, I would still avoid binding - something I had never enjoyed, I suspect since childhood, were my first attempts at finishing binding by machine were a bit woeful. Just one of my very few sewing blocks.
Then other things I will do quite happily, things like flat fell seams and top stitching for instance, which some people do not like to do.
And with this jacket I had plenty to satisfy me, with the back
And the pockets:
And the collar and collar band, and front band:
And, I even found buttons to match, but they are smaller than the recommended 28 mm, they are more 23 mm. The pattern used 4 of these larger buttons, but with my smaller size, I though five were needed, so the buttonholes were re-spaced.
But of course, the winning feature in this jacket have to be the wonderful pockets:
And the nice shape on the side:
And the top stitching and seaming on the back, which you can't really see here:
Well, I hate to start saying goodbye with my back to you, so one more of the front:
I do like this jacket, and I think I would like to make another one day in a much better fabric, but I will go down a size. It's wearable and relaxed, but still smart.
I've nearly got to the end of the green posts - one more to go, the little green skirt. Next week:
I drafted the side pockets myself. An if you look very closely, you will see that there is a fold down the front, with a little kick pleat. I love this variation , and will show you more closely next week.
Hoping you are all well and happy,